BUYING OLD VINYL LP'S - WATCH OUT!

THANK YOU FOR TAKING THE TIME TO READ THIS GUIDE. I DO HOPE YOUWILL FINDIT USEFUL. YOU MAY ALSO LIKE TO READ MY COMPANION GUIDE 'SELLING VINYL LP'S: PREPARATION,DESCRIPTION, POSTAGE'

I have bought many vinyl LP's on eBay and can recommend 99% of all sellers I have bought from.

But despite this, there are still a few sellers of vinyl LP's on Ebay who don't play by the rules, no matter how manyregulations eBay management puts on them. Often these sellers,despite their high 'red or green star'feedback scores, have much less than 100% positive feedback, and it's a good idea to check out other buyers' bad experiences before bidding.You can do thisby first clicking on the seller's feedback score and then clicking on the number of negative feedbacks recorded in the last 12 months - this will reveal everything bad others have said about the seller AND the seller's responses (which may well be rude or offensive showing how little they care about customer satisfaction).

So here are a few hints and tips on things to look out for:

1. Beware incomplete or misleading descriptions. If the seller says the LP is 'original' or '1st issue', do not expect to see the album on 'budget re-issue' labels such as MFP, CFP, Wing, Contour, Sunset, Marble Arch or Decca Ace of Hearts. These labels came out in the late 1960's to re-issue albums from the late 1950's and early 1960's. Their value is in most cases almost zero, so don't pay more than 1 each for these. The condition of these 'budget re-issue'vinyl LP'smay be 'Mint', but they are still almost worthless no matter what the condition.

2. Beware sellers who say in their descriptions that an LP has been 'visually graded' as to its condition (and therefore its value). No matter how shiny a vinyl may be, it can still sound awful when you come to play it, if at one time in its past it has been played with a faulty stylus. Visual gradings mean absolutely nothing. Look insteadfor those sellers who have played the record through themselves and are happy to give full details of any 'hiss', 'crackle'or 'pops' - these are the sellers who are generally the most honest and will give the best customer service.

3. Steer clear of sellers who say that an LP is 'excellent' or that it has been 'visually graded 'EX' in accordance with RC guidelines'. They cannot possibly give a grading of 'EX' (excellent)in accordance with the 'Record Collector Rare Record Price Guide' guidelines UNLESS they have played the record themselves and listened to it! And don't bid on a vinyl LP unless the seller has shown you at least one picture of the album- you really can have no idea of what you are getting.

4. There are a few sellers (usually dealers) of vinyl LP's on eBay who insist in giving you very detaileddescriptions, which initially look very inviting. There are oftenlots of words like 'brilliant!!!!', 'seriously rare!!!!', 'impossible to find!!!!' etc. whichmaymislead you into thinking such LP's are better than they actually are! So it's important youread ALL the small print carefully before bidding.

5. Unless you really want a particular vinyl LP, or you are bidding on an especially valuable one, don't bid on an LP where the seller is intending to charge more than 3.50 to post it to you. Most sellers are happy to post for much less than this, so why let yourself be ripped off by paying more?

6. If you are thinking of bidding on more than one item from the same seller, make sure that the seller will offer a p

Pictures Of Shilled Robert Harrop PG Tips Chimps

Photo's Used In ShilledListings

Further to my other guides regarding shill bidding, I continue to be absolutely appalled at eBay's apparent lack of concern about this spiralling problem.

Even though theitems are reported they seem to refuse to take the listing's down, or are to slow to act. I have done numerous guides in an attempt to protect buyers from the sellers I have identified, and theShill Bidding Techniquesused by many scammers to obtain the highest price for their listings.

TheRougues Galleryguide I have written,is a list of one persistant shiller who is still trading NOWunder three different Identities.

To make it eveneasier for these fraudsters to shill you, they use the private listing auction format.

If these pictures are yours then you are guilty of ripping people off.

If you are a perspective buyer, don't be to hasty in parting with your cash. Read my other Guideswhich may help or prevent you from being ripped off ?

My objective is to raise awarenessto new, niaveand evenlong servedtraders of the issues in todays market place.

It is Imperative that information such as thatI have provided,is visible to all. The only way this happens is your votes.

Triumph Spitfire ( GT6 / Herald / Vitesse )

Triumph Spitfire ( GT6 / Herald / Vitesse )

This is one of many illustrated classic car guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it and if you would like to find out more about the classic Triumph Spitfire car art featured in this guide please click here.

This guide celebrates the Triumph Spitfire, GT6, Herald and Vitesse models.

Triumph Spitfire Mk1 and Mk2

The Spitfire made its debut at the London Motor Show in October 1962. With chassis and mechanics derived largely from the Triumph Herald and body styling by Michelotti, it was an immediate success. Longer, leaner and better looking than its main competitors, the Austin Healey Sprite and MG Midget, the Spitfire had some definite advantages, although it was slightly higher priced at 641 when new in 1963. From March 1965 the Mk 2 became available. It featured a slightly more powerful engine and a higher level of trim, but was identical externally to the Mk 1, differing only in the style of the grille mesh.

Triumph Spitfire Mk3

The Spitfire Mk 3 became available from 1967 and represented a number of substantial improvements. The most important of these was the increase in engine capacity to 1296cc, which raised the power output to 75bhp and improved the overall performance of the car. 0-60mph now took 14.5 seconds and coupled with a top speed of 95mph the model was comfortably ahead of the competition. From a styling point of view the MkIII featured a raised bumper blade, several inches higher than before and partly obscuring the radiator entry duct. In addition, the soft top became permanently fitted and the inside of the car more tastefully equipped.

Triumph Spitfire Mk4 / 1500

Featuring better handling and a smoother style, the Spitfire Mk 4 arrived in 1970. Completely re-skinned and re-trimmed, it was a much more refined car than its predecessors. Slower than the Mk III it replaced, due to modifications for the new tighter American regulations, the MkIV inspired the final modification of the model, the 1500. Launched in late 1974, this car with its 1493cc power plant would reach the magic ton and ran successfully until 1980 when production finally closed. All Triumph 1500 s were fitted with an under-bumper, chin spoiler.

Triumph Herald

The Herald was conceived at Standard-Triumph in 1956 and launched three years later with a design from Giovanni Michelotti. Facing tough competition from other small cars like the Mini and Ford Anglia, it achieved considerable success with over half-a-million cars being built in just over a decade. Built in various guises: saloon, coupe, convertible, estate and van (very rare), the Herald saloon was the best seller from all other Herald / Vitesse / Spitfire / GT6 models drew many components.

Triumph Vitesse

The Herald sired a complete family of cars to include the Spitfire and GT6 but closely based on its layout was its big-engined brother the Vitesse. Marketed in the USA as the Sports 6, the Vitesse started life as a six-cylinder 1596cc in 1962, and progressed in 1966 to a 2 litre. Compared to the 1600, the 2 litre had a 1998cc / 95bhp six-cylinder engine to which a new all-synchromesh four-speed gearbox and more robust rear axle were mounted. The 2 litre Mk2 Vitesse arrived in late 1968, sharing all its improvements with the GT6 Mk2, which was launched on the same day.

Triumph GT6

The idea of building a six-cylinder version of the Spitfire came along in 1964. Christened GT 6 and developed with the North American market in mind, the model was launched in 1966. The Mk2 emerged in 1968 and the Mk3 (new body style with cut-off tail) was introduced in late 1970. By this time the GT6 had an all-synchromesh gearbox and a new back axle design with lower-wishbone suspension but these arrived too late as the market had already made up its mind unfavourably about the GT6. Little further effort was devoted to development and production ceased towards the end of 1973.

Thank you for reading my guide and I hope you found it interesting!

Buying The Right Golf Ball

The technology of golf balls has reached an unprecedented level, offering different covers, cores, dimple patterns, and compressions to best suit golfers' varying needs. In general, golfers should look for a ball that offers low spin and high launch angle off the driver and the appropriate amount of spin around the greens. Just as each golfer has his or her own shoe size, not every golf ball will fit every golfer.Swing speed is the biggest factor in determining which ball is right for which golfer - golfers with lower swing speeds should typically use a harder distance golf ball, while golfers with higher swing speeds should typically use a softer golf ball that offers more feel and control.

Ford Key / Keyfob Programming / Reprogramming

Hello everybody.

Firstly, I must apologise to all those who have purchased these instructions from me over the past few months.

From May this year, Ebay revised their Downloadable Media Policy

Lace Wig

Most of the guidelines issued for lace wig and toupee adhesives were initially manufactured for securing toupees and full head attachment systems. In this scenario the adhesive would be applied to a large area directly onto the skin. The best application will always come with direct skin to unit contact. With lace fronts we are only working with the perimeter hairline, so there is not that much room to apply a lot of adhesive, therefore more strain will be put on the adhesive at the perimeter, which ultimately affects the adhesive holding time. Depending on the adhesive used you can expect anywhere from 3 days (tapes) to 2 - 2 1/2 weeks holding time. When fitting a lace front wig the adhesive is applied only to the circumference of the unit, thus during wear the strain is localised to the perimeter. This will reduce the holding time of any adhesive when compared to toupee wearers. Expecting a hold for more then two weeks is unrealistic. Another factor to take into consideration is your own body chemistry; this will affect how long and how well each product works for you.If you are an active person or find you perspire a lot, then you may find that combining tape with adhesive works well; what may work for one person may not work for another.

Guidelines for expected holding times:

Short Term Wear You have the option of using either Toupee Tape or Adhesive for securing your Lace Front Wig. The products below provide 1-to-10 day bonding periods. Bonding periods with both Toupee Tape and Adhesive are relative to the environment where you live and your daily activities.

Red Liner Toupee Tape: Manufacturer Recommended Bonding Period: 1 to 10 Days. Lace wearers will get 7 days max For use with thin skin wigs. This tape is formulated to stick only to urethane tape tab areas. It is not formulated for sticking to monofilament or open-lace material. Remove with alcohol based remover e.g. C22 or All purpose remover.

Mity Tite Manufacturer Recommended Bonding Period: 1 to 10 Days. Lace wearers will get 5 days max . This adhesive may be used along the underside edge of a Lace Front Wig on urethane (plastic) tape areas or to monofilament or open-lace material. Clear liquid, good for touch ups. Remove with alcohol based remover e.g. C22 or PURE.

Extended Wear Bonding You have the option of using either Toupee Tape or Adhesive or both for securing your Lace Front or Thin Skin Wig for extended wearing.

PRO FLEX II Manufacturer Recommended Bonding Period: up to 21 days. Lace wearers will get 14 days max Remove with alcohol based remover e.g. C22 or PURE Blue Liner Toupee Tape Manufacturer Recommended Bonding Period: 28 days. Lace wearers will get 14 days max. Good cost effective solution for thin skin and lace units. Good holding but does go mushy when broken down by skin oils. Remove with alcohol based remover e.g. C22 or PURE

SuperTape Manufacturer Recommended Bonding Period: up to 40 Days. Lace wearers will get 17 days max. Good for thin skin and lace units. It is also waterproof and does not meltdown. This tape is highly recommended over any other tape or adhesive for extended wear bonding. All other tapes and adhesive do meltdown do to the oil from sweat. Remove with alcohol based remover e.g. C22 or PURE

Ultra Hold Adhesive (soft bond) Manufacturer Recommended Bonding Period: 40 days. Lace wearers will get 14 days max. Contains: Isopropanol, Ethyl Acetate, Heptane, Toluene. Waterproof good for trainers and swimmers. Excellent starter adhesive. Good for thin skin and lace units. Best applied on top of tape or urethane and directly onto skin. This is a clear, Acrylic based, Medical Grade, extended wear bonding adhesive. Placing the bottle in a 'hot' pan of tap water for several minutes to thin out will make it easier to apply. Remove with alcohol based remover e.g. C22 or PURE.

Vapon No Tpe Silicon Adhesive (hard bond) Manufacturer Recommended Bonding Period: 42 days. Lace wearers will get 21 days max. Contains: Silicone, Ethyl Acetate. Waterproof good for trainers and swimmers. Good for thin skin and lace units. Best applied on top of tape or urethane. This is a clear, Silicone based extended wear bonding adhesive. Applied to both skin and unit, allowed to dry then placed together. Use Topsol, Amber Super Solventor Acetone to remove.

Safe Grip Adhesive - Water based Manufacturer Recommended Bonding Period: 42 days. Lace wearers will get 21 days max. Good for thin skin and lace units. Best applied on top of tape or urethane. This is a white, water based, extended wear bonding adhesive. Remove with alcohol based remover e.g. C22 or PURE.

Oil Resistant White Glue Water basedManufacturer Recommended Bonding Period: 42 days.Lace wearers will get 21 days max. Good for thin skin and lace units. This is a white, water based, extended wear bonding adhesive. Remove with alcohol based remover e.g. C22 or PURE. Designed for oily-skinned, hard-perspiring hair wearers who cannot get satisfactory results from existing products. InvisiBond Manufacturer Recommended Bonding Period: 42 days. Lace wearers will get 21 days max This adhesive may be used along the underside edge of a Lace Front Wig on urethane (plastic) tape tab areas or monofilament or open lace material. This is a white, water based, extended wear bonding adhesive. Remove with alcohol based remover e.g. C22 or PURE

Bike Parts and Accessories - AVOID THE SCAMS!

I use eBay to run my motorbike spares business and I get tired seeing other users getting ripped off by unscrupulous sellers. There is at least one individual I see operating on ebay frequently. He sets up or hijacks a username, the current one being all-bike-parts, then sells lots of high value parts. No one ever receives their items and when the account is closed down by ebay, he moves on to a new one. His account feedback usually has a few bike related items to put your mind at ease.

Tips to avoid getting ripped off:

Too good to be true? Then it usually is. Ebay is great for bargains but be realistic. Someone selling new Ohlins shocks at half price is either mad or a crook.
Seller has multiple listings of the same thing, usually rare items. Such as 5 sets of AP racing calipers.
No local pickup allowed. Usually a sign they dont have it! If they say you can pick up the item AFTER you have paid with paypal, thenits probably a con.
Item pictures all have different backgrounds. A sure sign the pictures have been copied off the internet. Most sellers take their photos in the same place, ie workshop or garage floor.
Try running a completed item search on ebay and you might just find the item for sale has already recently been sold by another user.
Ask specific questions about the item and see what the response is.
If in doubt USE PAYPAL and check on the listing to see how much you are covered for. It will take awhile but you will get your money back.

Hope this helps!

DO NOT BUY ANY SOFTWARE OR UPDATES THEY ARE FREE

ANY SOFTWARE OR UPDATES ARE WIDLEY FREE ON INTERNET EG: BIGMAQ TOOLBAR DIGITALWORLDZ FORUM ETC. SOME SELLERS ARE TRYING TO SELL THESE FOR PRICES STARTING FROM 1 DO NOT BUY RESEARCH OR DOWNLOAD THE TOOLBARS FOR FREE

HOW NOT TO BE SCAMMED BY CON ARTISTS ON EBAY ( PAYPAL )

YES IT DOES HAPPEN !

There are many people out there, mostly from abroad, who have every intention of ripping you off when you are selling an item !

CON ARTISTS! YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE !

Unfortunately I was scammed out of an expensive designer jacket I was selling, and this buyer from Poland, purchased my jacket at the full buy it now asking price. Did not even make an OFFER ! To maybe try and get it a little cheaper !

I was happy with his purchase. He paid !!!!!!!!! 175.00 shipping !

He sent me quite a few emails saying 'Really happy I won this jacket ! AND it is for his friend in Andora, as it is his birthday !

He asked me if I would ship it to his friend in another COUNTRY ! So I said yes sure, I didn;t think there was a problem !

Until, a day or two later, when I emailed him to say I sent the item, he REVERSED PAYMENT through PAYPAL ! and got all HIS MONEY BACK instantly! and I had lost money as a consequence ! I paid alot for the jacket myself, and paid for shipping, so really I LOST OUT BIG TIME !!

I was furious and contacted him, and Ive never recieved a reply since my email 2 months ago ! SOME SCUM BAG THIEVING IDIOT !

Now, I went to PAYPAL, to make a CLAIM, and I could not qualify to get the money back ! As it was an UNCOMFIRMED ADDRESS ! and was sent to a different address than the one stated on PAYPAL !

YOU CAN ONLY GET YOUR MONEY BACK, IF YOU SEND THE ITEM TO A CONFIMED ADDRESS !

SO SELLERS BEWARE, ONLY SELL TO PEOPLE WITH CONFIRMED ADDRESSES THROUGH PAYPAL, AS YOU MAY GET SCAMMED ! JUST LIKE I DID !

BEWARE OF THIS !

Please vote YES if this was helpful.

Thank you for the time in reading this !

Moorcroft Restorations and Spotting Them

The purpose of this guide is to assist a potential Moorcroft buyer in deciding if they are about to buy or have bought a restored piece. Whilst I am no complete expert in this field, I have seen my fair share of both the good, the bad and the downright ugly work of restorers on Moorcroft. With practice, anyone can become competent at spotting this type of work. Some restoration is perfectly acceptable if it is on a rare or unusual piece, andit is never an issue if a great work of art is restored to its former glory, in fact it can often enhance its value! My argument is more along the lines of "Why pay the same money for a little pin dish with restoration as you would for a pefect one?"

All commercial restoration can be spotted, no matter how good it is. This is mainly down to the materials used. All restoration is 'plastic', at least on the surface. No piece can be re-fired at the extreme original temperatures used by the factory without detremental results, so a suitable substitute has to be used for the clear glazes. The only ones available that give a satisfactory result are some form of epoxy or plastic based lacquer. Below the surface, fillers may be hard, but none can substitute the same qualities as the original pottery. To the touch, restoration will usually feel warmer than the cold of the original glaze, unless of course, the piece has been stood near a heat source!

To start your examination, you should stand away from the object and decide where you think it is most vulnerable, with regard to itsustaining damage in the event of it being knocked over or dropped etc. This is usually the rim, the base, a handle or any protruding feature. Get your restoration spottingtools on stanby - we all own them without realising it. Your eyes, teeth, fingertips and nails are the best available for the job in hand!

Next, pick up the item and examine it closely and espesciallyin all of the vulnerable areas, using a magnifier if necessary. Look for differences in shade of colour (it is extremely difficult to match exisiting colours perfectly), or areas where the colour looks too 'block' like. By this, I mean an area that is very uniform and solid looking compared to its surounding or adjoining parts. Feel for differences in texture, even if it all looks smooth. Retored glaze will NEVER feel the same as the original cold, glass like finish. By gently dragging you fingernail across an area, you will be able to feel a 'drag' effect on a restored glaze.

If you find a suspect area, then you should use the next tool, your teeth. Have you ever seen people at antiques fairs or shops looking like they are trying to bite a vase or nibble a cup handle? If you tap the suspect area gently with your teeth, you will be able to detect that 'plastic' surprisingly easy. With original glaze, you will always get a glass like ping, and with restoration a dull empty sound by comparison. To demonstarte the extreme differences of this,try tapping a ceramic object gently with your teeth, then a hard plastic object.

The final test is the heat one mentioned at the start. Place your hand over the suspect area for a while, until you feel some warmth developing. Remove your hand then replace it after a short while and feel for any warm spots remaining. Plastic will always retain heat for longer than glaze and this factor is most useful.

Some people will use pins to detect restoration, but this can have disasterous results. A seller may not be aware that they are selling a restored piece, and they wouldn't be too happy if you start digging holes in it! If you are not totally confident with the method outlined above, then you can use the edge of a smooth coin to gently tap parts of interest.

I hope that you have found this article interesting and useful, and if you have then please vote accordingly and keep it prominent for others to see. I have also written guides on spotting seconds in Moorcrfot and Royal Doulton which you may wish to peruse.

NBA Basketball jerseys

Hi,Watch out for these jerseys that are being stated as
"Authentic NBA jerseys". most of these are fake replics. you can
tell as the name and number on the back of the jerseys are written in a
different font from the ones used in the authentics from the NBA Shop.Also these jerseys retail at $200 , so it is very strange to find them at $50 and the sellers having such a large quantity to.So just watch out you dont fall victim!

Collecting Stamps - Part 3: Accessories

Your first essential item of equipment should be a pair of stamp
tweezers - these are made of light plated metal with slender, flattened
tips or 'spade' ends enabling stamps to be picked up and sorted quickly
and surely.

Buying advice on rear view monitors

There are a range of considerations when buying a rear view monitor. I have written this guide in order to help you select the most appropriate monitor for your needs.

Types of rear view monitor

Sun visor monitor:- There are two types available on the market. The first replaces the existing sun visor and usually contains a DVD player as well as a TFT screen. The key thing to remember about these is that they are usually bought in pairs in order to keep the appearance of the vehicle. They can be difficult to fit as the mounting for the visor might not match the vehicle mounting. The second type clips on the existing sun visor. These are so thin they will not contain a DVD or speaker. They are located in an ideal area as usually it is in the shade which helps see the image. When sun gets onto the front of a monitor it can make seeing the image quite hard. It is important to ensure your sun visor is perfectly flat and you have room for the screen when the visor is up. They are much less likely to be stolen compared to more visible monitors.

Clip on mirror:- These come in a variety of shapes and can have Bluetooth or memory card slots. The TFT panel size can vary from a small 2.5" up to a wide screen 10". When the screen is not on the reflective surface of the glass acts like a normal mirror. This leads to a number of issues. In some vehicles there is a lot of light from things like high side windows or sun roofs. This can give reflections on the glass that make seeing the image on the screen hard. The "mirror function" of the monitor is darker than you would normally get on your rear view mirror (similar to having the dip lever on). In long vehicles like motorhomes this can make using it as a rear view mirror hard on dull winters days. They also tend to be made for larger American vehicles so you need to check it does not snag the sun visors. They can however be the ideal solution as they are mounted where you would usually look. They tend to be fairly discrete so less likely to attract the thief. They can be used as an always on rear view if you use a quality CCD camera. Watch out for split screen versions that can show two images side by side on a 10" screen.

Stand on dash:- Again you can get a variety of sizes from 2.5" upwards. The 7" is the most popular and because they are made in large numbers they are also as cheap as the smaller monitors. Although called stand on dash most of them can be ceiling mounted or glued to the windscreen in place of a mirror. Being mounted on the dash they can be hard to see the image on bright days, especially if the sun can get onto the screen. They are also very visible to the opportunist thief. It is possible to remove them from the vehicle as most have a plug and socket a short distance from the monitor. Although unplugging is easy mounting them onto the bracket is often fiddly.

In-dash:- These can be purely just a monitor or they can have a range of extras - Bluetooth, TVs, DVD, USB, memory card slots etc. If you are buying these on eBay beware of sellers not based in this country. If it does not work you have lost your money! Also the cost of sending it back for replacement is quite high and it is common for the seller not to receive it. It is very common for factories to dump their stock into auction sites when they have failed the quality control. I have lost count of the number of people with these units that discover that although the radio and DVD might work well other features do not. Sellers feedback does not usually show this as people are happy with their purchase at first. Buy from a UK based business with a published business address and a feedback score over 99.8%. I do not sell these units so I am not biased in my advice. The last thing to mention is any purchase over the value of 18 from outside the EU whether it is marked as a gift orsample may attract duty, VAT and handling fees. I have known one persons bill to be over 120 on a purchase costing 160. If you do get one of these units then they are very nice. Getting a camera to work on them can be a bit of a problem. There is usually a default in the way they are wired to prevent the viewing of an image with the handbrake off. The manual usually explains have to over-ride this.

Flip down:- These are usually ceiling mounted. They often contain DVD players and can vary in size from 3.5" up to very big. If you can fit one in your vehicle then they make a very good monitor for rear view use. They are very popular if you want them on all the time. The very small flip down monitors can often be mounted in the central part of the dash.

Wiring monitors in

The biggest problem is often getting the wires behind the dashboard or interior trim. They usually only require a positive connection to a supply controlled by the accessory switch, a negative that goes to the vehicle body and on some a connection to the reversing light to turn it on when reverse is selected. Many modern monitors now do not have the reverse light wire as the input of a video signal from the reversing camera will start it up. Monitors should never be connected direct to the vehicles battery.

Types of monitor panel

Most low price monitors use a CCLP back light. These require high voltages which is achieved by a power inverter circuit. They are prone to failure aided by the damp conditions found in vehicles especially in winter. More expensive monitors will use an LED backlight. On average these will give up to twice the life of a panel using a CCLP back light. We have found a failure rate on monitors of around 10% if they have a CCLP backlight and around 2% with a LED (over a period of 12 months). A lot of low price monitors used panels that are either seconds or refurbished. The failure rate on these can be up to 25% over a year. Unfortunately there is no way of easily telling unless you are buying from a reputable source. Again if they have no pixel policy and no contact details avoid buying from them. In the early days of our businesss we had one batch of monitors with an unusually high failure rate. The rust on the panels gave away the fact that they were not new as the factory stated. We now pay more and go for quality as in the long run it works out cheaper.

Specialist rear view monitors will almost all have two inputs to allow the use of two camera. More recent developments give up to 4 cameras in a split screen arrangement. RCA switches can be used to increase the number of inputs. On most monitors you can invert or reflect the image unsing the menu system. Most modern monitors will work with both PAL or NTSC cameras. Usually if they do not and you have the wrong video format the image will be black and white with poor frame hold.

If you have found the review useful please complete the feedback question.

G-Star jeans. How to tell the fakes from the genuines

Hi people.. I'm getting pretty sick and tired of people selling crap quality G-Star on Ebay so I am giving you the lowdown on how to spot the fakes... I work for G-Star, have been wearing the product for nearly 10 years and have been selling it for over 5 so I can spot a shitter from a mile away!

96 Elwoods are the most commonly seen on here. They are only available with the 96 sewn into the back of the left thigh. These jeasn are also only available as a NARROW fit. They have NEVER made a loose fitting 96 embroidered Elwood. They are only available in a few Denims a season so Check at your local Stockists. The real jeans have a Leather patch on the back and not a PVC or plastic one. The real jeans won't lay down flat on the ground as they are ergonomic and are shaped to the leg. You can't lay them flat.

G-Star Jeans very rarely use zip fly. They are expensive to put in, and don't last as long as buttons.

G-Star rivets tend to have 'GS' '3301' 'GSRD' or some ID on them, this will be straight, even and easily read.

G-Star Jeans prices start from 70 and go up to 230 for the hand crafted versions. So seeing them on here, new, for less than 40 is wrong. These fake jeans use AWFULL quality cotton, techniques and dye to make these jeans and are worth no more than 20.

Raw denim is where the denim has had no fading or treatments. Not all G-Star denim is 'raw'.

G-Star Raw is a brand that uses quality materials and techniquesand promotes good working environments for all of its overseas workers. As you can imagine, the people tt make the akes do not.

Ifany of you have any doubts, please ask me. It is hard for me to tell from just photos so I can't be 100% correct ut at least you will have a head start.

I have had a pair of their Jeans for over 9 years now so you can but the real jeans with the confidence than they will last, fit right, look good and be comfortable (and that people wont laugh and take the piss out of you behind your back or being a cheapskate).

Enjoy,

Al

PayPal eCheque, Payment Pending, Uncleared

PayPal eCheques, Payment Pending, Uncleared

A Guide for Buyers

"EMMA BRIDGEWATER" Dairy Range cheese

I have been increasingly aware lately of a number of "rare" pieces turning up on eBay that are supposedly produced by Bridgewater. There are 2 pieces in particular which have drawn my attention that keep appearing and these arethe rather ornate, wedge-shapedbutter dishes with the handle and the large, roundcheese domes - both sporting the lithographs from the Bridgewater "Dairy" range, plus some odd,gilt flourishing added on the wedge-shaped piece. I have also now seen butter dishes in a very similar style to the old authentic ones with a flatter, tray-like base.

Since these pieces didn't have the simple and clean, classic lines of Bridgewater pottery and basically just "didn't look right", I made some investigations and contacted Bridgewater themselves.

Apparently, a whileago, some of the authentic Matthew Rice lithograph transfersmanaged to getinto the wrong hands and ended up onitems of potterythat did not originate from the Bridgewater factory. Since the backstamp was copied also, it gave the piecesa certainair of (false) authenticity.

As well as the butter dish and cheese dome, there is also an odd-shapedjug with a blue version of the lithographs on to watch out for. I must point out at this stage that there are also GENUINE Bridgewater jugs and butter dishesfrom the range, but these have the usual, black transfers on and the butter dishesare the normal style and design with the deeper base and more shallow lid..

All genuine Emma Bridgewater pieces, if they have lids with a "knob", will have a pointed shape to them. The fakes have aflat, smooth "knob" - as seen in the cheese domes and the more recent "tray and lid" type butter dishes.

There is asection in the "Emma Bridgewater" book by Steven Jenkins on page 119 which gives a very good account of these aforementionedpretenders.

JANUARY 2010 UPDATE: There has been another influx of these fakes on eBay. Can I urge everyone who sees them appearing to report them through the correct eBay channels so that they can be removed before people bid on them. There seems to be a particularly high incidence of people selling the fakes in the Norfolk/Suffolk region and, typically,manyof these are inexperienced Bridgewater sellers who often sell other makes of pottery and bric-a-brac also. Theyinvariably refuse to alter their description or remove the listing despite being given the information about the background of the pieces. Please be careful!

Many thanks to Chris Stoker for supplying the photographs.

Watch out motorbike scams 6/5/08 Laverda etc The latest

I saw a Laverda in the classified ads for 1000, (they normally sell on auction for about 3-3.5k) I emailed the bloke told himI would have it, greatI thoughtI would buy it for my dad as he is lav mad. He mailed back with a sob story about how he is desperate for the money.

Ok soI told him cash on delivery. He then removed it from ebay

Buying a moped or scooter, avoid cheap chinese rubbish

Hello there, chances are if youve found this guide your looking for a moped or automatic scooter. ebay is full of poor quality chinese vehicles that have a tendency to fall to peices after a while.


So your looking and you find a good deal, brand new vehicle with a full pdi for 400-600, maybe more maybe less??? chances are it comes under the name of loncin, baotian, chongwong heigin, heicong, kymco etc etc


all companies noones ever heard of, because theyre all based in china, taiwan or some other third world country. standards in these countries are low, the majority of people assembling the vehicles have no prior qualifications, for the vehicle to be cheap they are made with cheap materials and process's.


Ive told you about the manufacturer, then what happens? they get sent in mass deliveries (often tens or hundreds) to companies all over europe, some wholesale warehouses, some companies buy direct to save money)


now these companies are very clever, they have a tendency to stretch the truth in their auctions a lot... they all promise bikes that are bought cheap and they pass the saving onto you, they promise a 'guaruntee', a full pre delivery inspection, they promise their vehicles are the latest and best 2008 models. I wouldnt use the term liars but the truth is stretched in many respects.


I will now back up my guide with a few examples of the poor service you can recieve. a friend of mine bought a kymco 50cc 2 stroke automatic scooter for 1000. i cant name the company who sold it for obvious reasons, but they advertise promising all the above, and have 20 'dealers' nationwide, one of which is just up the road from my house.


he had this bike bought for him by his parents, the 'dealer' happened to be a guy with a garage attached to his house, very professional. he sold him the bike, all well and good.


5 days later the numberplate falls off, these bolts should have been checked with the pre delivery inspection but werent


2 days later the rear light assembly fell off, again was loose from manufacturer.


through this time the bike also had difficulty climbing up hills and had a top speed of 25mph (restricted apparently) and it just wouldnt work in the wet, as soon as water touched it the engine wouldnt have it.


10 days later the cdi decided to go on strike, at this point he took it back to the guy who sold it to him, he wasnt in and his wife answered, told him to leave the bike there and her husband would ring him.


he rang the guy after 3 days, the seller firstly accused my friend of 'ragging it round' and insisted he'd done something to it. my friend told him as the bike was new he wanted it fixing for free and hed like to pay to have it derestricted.


the guy told him (quote) 'im not a f**ing charity, ive already ordered the cdi with my own money, i want 100 for the work as it is or an extra 50 for the derestriction' my friend argued and basically got the response 'either pay for the work or you aint having the bike back, im not letting some kid f**k me around' and hung up on him, his parents then paid for the work...


and guess what, the guy had charged 50 to derestrict but the bike was no faster, the bike broke down again 2 weeks later with no spark again, the guy is now trying to sell it for 500 with no interest so far (and has since bought a brand new yamaha scooter)


another friend bought one of the 4 stroke specials, again with no warranty (which is against consumer rights i believe?) a top speed of a whopping 20mph and has gone through 2 throttle cables already, that plus its just plain ugly to look at.


ive heard a lot more stories about the poor aftercare service but also these bikes are unreliable and often slow, restricted the performance of many scooters is dire, and they all get left behind by people owning gilera's/piaggio's/yamaha's/mbk's/aprilia's and a select few others.


The alternative? look for a second hand brand named bike. parts are a lot easier to obtain, they perform a lot better and are a lot easier on the eyes aswell.


for example, you can buy a brand new aerox for 2200 which seems like a lot, but you could get a pre 2001 one for 400 or maybe less and it will hold its resale value a great deal too. standard they are capable of 55mph on the clock (derestricted) and with some select tuning goodies from mr polini could see you doing 60-70 on the clock and wheely good acceleration!


to sum this up, dont bother with a name noones ever heard of, dont listen to sellers lies, too many people have fallen for it and have peds in their garden waiting for the scrap man...


ride safe!

sam from scootershack

SONY PS3 60GB WARNING WARNING BUYERS BEWARE, READ THIS,

I HAVE JUST BEEN TAKEN FOR 410.50 ON BUYING A BRAND NEW UNWANTED PRESENT PS3 FROM AN E BAY MEMBER I WON THE ITEM ON THE 27TH MARCH LATE EVENING,E MAILED THE SELLER ON LOTS OF OCCASIONS DURING THE NIGHT ,SEEMED GENUINE ENOUGH ,SO I PAID VIA PAYPAL AS I WANTED THE PS3 AS A PRESENT ,I ASKED THEM TO SEND SPECIAL DELIVERY,THEY AGREED AS LONG AS I PAID STRAIGHT AWAY THAT EVENING,SO I DID, FRI CAME AND I STARTED WONDERING, SHOULD COME SATURDAY, TODAY ,NOPE IT DIDNT COME I THOUGHT ILL EMAIL THE PERSON ,GETS A MESSAGE FROM E BAY SAYING THEY HAVE ENDED THE LISTING,AS THERE IS PROBLEMS WITH SELLERS ACCOUNT AND I SHOULD NOT PAY FOR THE ITEM ,TO LATE, 2 DAYS TO BE EXACT ,I WON THE ITEM THEY DID NOT END IT ,I HAVE NOW FILED A CLAIM AND PHONED PAYPAL TO WARN THEM OF POSSIBLE FRAUD,THE EBAYER IS NO LONGER A REGISTERED USER ,SO I WANT TO MAKE SURE NONE OF YOU MAKE THE SAME MISTAKE AS I DID , THE EBAYER HAD ONLY REGISTERED RECENTLY ,HAD NO FEEDBACK,CAME FROM LONDON, NOT TARING EVERYONE WITH SAME BRUSH,JUST STATINGTHE FACTS,THEY ALSOADVERTISED OTHER ITEMS ASWELL (MAKES IT LOOK GENUINE)JUST BE VERY CAREFUL ASK IF YOU CAN PICK THE ITEM UP INSTEAD OF POSTING ,THIS WILL THEN DETERMINE WHETHER THERE IS REALLY A PS3 60GB FOR SALE,DO NOT PAY FOR THE ITEM STRAIGHT AWAY, UNLESS THEY ARE COVERED BY PAYPAL PROTECTIONTHE FULL AMOUNT OF YOUR PURCHASE,AS E BAY TOOK 2 DAYS AFTER THE LISTING ENDED TO REMOVE IT, SO PAY WITHIN 7 DAYS THIS WILL GIVE YOU TIME ,I WON THE ITEMGENUINE ,PLEASE EVERY 1BE CAREFUL BEST WISHES SHELLIE X

10 WAYS TO SAVE MONEY

It's amazing how much money you can save by just making a few relatively painless changes to your everyday life. Here areten toptips....
1. Don't buy bottled water. At around 80p for a 1.5 ltr (your recommended daily amount) it really is a very expensive luxury, especially since in Britain we have perfectly healthy tap water available for next-to-nothing. Don't like the taste of tap water? Perhaps you could get to like it more easily if you realiseddrinkingthe bottledvariety could be costing you around 350 a year!
2. Don't skip breakfast. Not only is it the most important meal of the day, it's cheap if you make it yourself. Eatinga good breakfastwill mean youwon't want expensive Starbucks-style coffee,sandwiches and chocolate bars mid morning.
3. If you can, buy 'value' items in the supermarkets. I swapped my favorite branded antiperspirant recently in favour of the supermarkets' own make - result....it was a QUARTER of the price, smelt great, and I still have all the friends I had before so it obviouslyworks just fine!
4. Take a look at your direct debits. Are you paying to belong to a gym you no longer use? Are you subscribing to a magazine you no longer read? Cancel any direct debits that aren't essential.
5. Just as you look forward to spending money at the weekend, get into the habit of looking forward to saving money.Put a little aside each week, without fail.You'll hardly miss it and youwill be amazed at how quick it grows.
6. Car boot sales. Shop there, sell there. Markets and car boot sales are great places to buysecond-handbaby clothes (trust me, baby won't mind!), household cleaning products, toilet rolls,coffee, tea bags, brooms,shampoo, and all that kinda stuff for much, much less thanSainsburys or Tesco. Want to know how to make money there? Read my other toprated guide to car booting for some very helpful tips.
7.Slow down and save money!Not surprisingly, your car will do more miles per gallon at 50 mph than 70. Just leave a little ealier and take it slower. You will save loads,have less chance of a being involved in aserious accidentand you'llhelp the environment too. Plus, for course, you won't be getting those expensive speeding fines!
8.Do you rememberthe time when we bought clothes because our others had worn out? No, neither do I, but my grandmas did. If you just rearranged your wardrobe a little, into seasons or colours you might be surprised at what you come across. A forgotten purchase perhaps, a new combination of items, or a re-vamping of an old favorite. Most of us are caught up in an orgy of 'buying stuff' for the sake of it. STOP! Remind yourself how long it took to earn the moneyyou're about to spend on that little dress, or those cuteshoes. Are you buying them because you really need them or because you need a quick feel-good fix?
9. Don't have pets.Dogsand catsarelovely to ownbut don't kid yourself they come cheap. The purchase price is just the start! When you consider the weeklycost of food, grooming, bedding, neutering, insurance,boarding fees,theobligatoryvaccinations,replacementcosts of damaged furniture and carpets and the emergencyvet bills etc.,theselittle critters will keep you poorer than you want to be.Snakes, reptiles and tropical fish are all expensive additions you should put off getting until you don't have to count the cost, in fairness to you and the animals.
10. Ladies....makeup....buy from the supermarket, not the department store! Unless there is a medical reason why you chose one brand over the other, economise on this area. Trust me...no one will notice orevencare if you spent 29.99 on that little bottle of Madame Whatnots Satin Smooth AgeEliminating HyperIlluminating Foundation with RealMongolianMonkey GlandExtractor something you gotfrom Superdrug for 3.99. Ditto with eyeshadows, nail varnish, mascaraetc. If you apply itwell you'll stilllook a million dollars and you'll save almost thatmuch too!
If you have found this useful or mildly entertaining PLEASE give it a YES vote in the box below.This is my own work andIown the copyright, so please do not copy without my written consent. Thanks!

HD Ready Projectors

In the UK, a product is not HD ready unless it can display at a resolution of at least 720p.720p translates to a resolution of at least 720 pixels high. (The 'p' stands for progressive scan.) The usual resolution for a widescreen 720p display is 1280 x 720. It's important to note that when a projector claims to be HD ready, it needs to have a native resolution of at least 720p, usually 1280x720 or higher. It's the vertical resolution - the 720 bit - which defines it as HD ready, however.Many projectors have been sold as HD ready which have lower native resolutions, such as 800x600, 800x480, or even 640x480. Whilst these projectors may in some cases still have a higher resolution than SD (Standard Definition) displays, they do not meet the criterion for being HD ready. Note that 1024x768 resolutions could technically be called 'HD Ready', but in practice will not display a 720p picture in widescreen format unless they stretch pixels. When looking for HD Ready projectors on ebay, you need to know that some projectors can support input of higher resolutions than they are capable of displaying. You might see these listed as 'supported resolutions'. Regardless of the input resolution, a projector literally cannot display the image at a resolution higher than its native resolution. When a projector with a native resolution of 800x600 is fed an image with a true HD source, the image will be resampled down to 800x600 resolution and quality will be lost.When thinking about buying an 'HD' projector, always check the native resolution of the projector. Always make sure that it is capable displaying 720p, not just 'supporting' it.

TEN EASY WAYS TO SAVE MONEY

It's amazing how much money you can save by just making a few relatively painless changes to your everyday life. Here areten toptips....
1. Don't buy bottled water. At around 80p for a 1.5 ltr (your recommended daily amount) it really is a very expensive luxury, especially since in Britain we have perfectly healthy tap water available for next-to-nothing. Don't like the taste of tap water? Perhaps you could get to like it more easily if you realiseddrinkingthe bottledvariety could be costing you around 350 a year!
2. Don't skip breakfast. Not only is it the most important meal of the day, it's cheap if you make it yourself. Eatinga good breakfastwill mean youwon't want expensive Starbucks-style coffee,sandwiches and chocolate bars mid morning.
3. If you can, buy 'value' items in the supermarkets. I swapped my favorite branded antiperspirant recently in favour of the supermarkets' own make - result....it was a QUARTER of the price, smelt great, and I still have all the friends I had before so it obviouslyworks just fine!
4. Take a look at your direct debits. Are you paying to belong to a gym you no longer use? Are you subscribing to a magazine you no longer read? Cancel any direct debits that aren't essential.
5. Just as you look forward to spending money at the weekend, get into the habit of looking forward to saving money.Put a little aside each week, without fail.You'll hardly miss it and youwill be amazed at how quick it grows.
6. Car boot sales. Shop there, sell there. Markets and car boot sales are great places to buysecond-handbaby clothes (trust me, baby won't mind!), household cleaning products, toilet rolls,coffee, tea bags, brooms,shampoo, and all that kinda stuff for much, much less thanSainsburys or Tesco. Want to know how to make money there? Read my other toprated guide to car booting for some very helpful tips.
7.Slow down and save money!Not surprisingly, your car will do more miles per gallon at 50 mph than 70. Just leave a little ealier and take it slower. You will save loads,have less chance of a being involved in aserious accidentand you'llhelp the environment too. Plus, for course, you won't be getting those expensive speeding fines!
8.Do you rememberthe time when we bought clothes because our others had worn out? No, neither do I, but my grandmas did. If you just rearranged your wardrobe a little, into seasons or colours you might be surprised at what you come across. A forgotten purchase perhaps, a new combination of items, or a re-vamping of an old favorite. Most of us are caught up in an orgy of 'buying stuff' for the sake of it. STOP! Remind yourself how long it took to earn the moneyyou're about to spend on that little dress, or those cuteshoes. Are you buying them because you really need them or because you need a quick feel-good fix?
9. Don't have pets.Dogsand catsarelovely to ownbut don't kid yourself they come cheap. The purchase price is just the start! When you consider the weeklycost of food, grooming, bedding, neutering, insurance,boarding fees,theobligatoryvaccinations,replacementcosts of damaged furniture and carpets and the emergencyvet bills etc.,theselittle critters will keep you poorer than you want to be.Snakes, reptiles and tropical fish are all expensive additions you should put off getting until you don't have to count the cost, in fairness to you and the animals.
10. Ladies....makeup....buy from the supermarket, not the department store! Unless there is a medical reason why you chose one brand over the other, economise on this area. Trust me...no one will notice orevencare if you spent 29.99 on that little bottle of Madame Whatnots Satin Smooth AgeEliminating HyperIlluminating Foundation with RealMongolianMonkey GlandExtractor something you gotfrom Superdrug for 3.99. Ditto with eyeshadows, nail varnish, mascaraetc. If you apply itwell you'll stilllook a million dollars and you'll save almost thatmuch too!
If you have found this useful or mildly entertaining PLEASE give it a YES vote in the box below.This is my own work andIown the copyright, so please do not copy without my written consent. Thanks!

Guide to selecting the right kayak

Welcome to Stormkayaks guide on selecting a kayak.

Stormkayaks

Things to think about when selecting a kayak

First a safety note -Kayaking can be a dangerous sport so caution should be taken at all times. A suitable buoyancy aid should be worn and you should never kayak alone. Make sure you let someone know when and where you are going and when you will return. At Stormkayaks we recommend that you join a local kayaking club to gain experience and to meet new kayaking friends.

Due to the ever growing popularity of kayaking in the UK, the selection of kayaks available has never been greater.

You will need to ask yourself a few questions when selecting a suitable kayak ?

First

Selecting the best material for "your kayak" is a function of three basic elements, weight, strength and cost! Once you make an honest evaluation of your intended needs and uses, its easy.

Polyethylene - "Plastic, Tupperware and Poly" are all terms commonly used to describe Polyethylene

It's the most common material used to build kayaks today. There are two main types of polyethylene are linear and cross-linked. Linear polyethylene stands are very long whereas cross-linked strands are shorter and chemically bonded to one another to provide stiffness.

Linear Kayaks - Most often built using a process called roto-molding. Plastic pellets are added to a two piece mold, the mold is heated turning the pellets to liquid, then rotated. When complete the mold is opened to remove the kayak. Although a slight line will appear on the outside of the kayak, the seam or stress point is all but eliminated from the all-important inside.

Cross-linked Kayaks - Made from a patented "sandwich approach". A thick foam core is sandwiched between an outer and inner layer of polyethylene to provide stiffness at moderate cost. Cross-link kayaks are stronger and stiffer but also tend to be more costly.

Polyethylene materials provide a very durable, inexpensive and maintenance free kayak

Composite - Is a term used to describe fibreglass, Kevlar or carbon kayaks. Composite kayaks are made by hand fitting layers of cloth into a mold and adding resin to create a stiff, tough shell. A gel-coat on the outside of the boat adds further protection and produces a attractive, shiny finish. Fibreglass kayaks can be very tough and are much lighter than Polyethylene boats. Kevlar kayaks will weigh less again, and will have added strength. Carbon is the latest advancement in kayak building technology. When bonded with Kevlar, carbon tends to hold its shape better than other materials, keeping lightweight boats from flexing out of shape. Its primary use is in building the lightest high performance oriented yakayass.

Composite kayaks are light weight, strong and are visually more appealing than plastic kayaks, but in general cost more.

Other Material Choices - Wooden Kayaks made from Do-it-yourself kits are becoming increasingly available. Although wood kayaks paddle well and are attractive, they tend to be much less durable than kayaks made from plastics or composites.

Inflatable Kayaks have the big advantage of being compactness and portable. Due to their soft nature these boats will always be more sluggish to paddle than other material choices, but modern plastics are making them stronger than the older inflatable kayaks.

Folding Kayaks use nylon or canvas material stretched over a lightweight aluminium frame. Disassembled, folding kayaks fit into two or three bags for ease of transportation. Folding kayaks are less responsive than hard shell kayaks and can be time consuming to set up. Can be expensive.

THE BEST MATERIAL FOR YOU will be a compromise of strength, weight, cost and your paddling needs!

_________________________________________________________________________________

Some kayaking terms

General Purpose/Family kayaks - are often the first introduction into kayaking. They are a very stable and forgiving kayak. Some models have a large open cockpit so you will feel less enclosed. These are the kayaks that the training centres purchase.They will grow with your experience.

Sit-On-Top Kayaks as there name suggest you sit on top rather than inside. If you fall off its easy to get back on. They are at home on the beach with the family or in the surf getting wet. They are very forgiving even if you have little or no experience of using them.

Sea and Touring kayaks offer you the freedom to explore our rivers, estuaries, lakes and the open sea. With a tracking hull you will find travelling that much easier. They range from the day user to the full blown expedition sea kayak.

White Water Kayaks are designed for the more experienced user. The choices are far greater due to them being designed around the height and weight of the user. When you come to selecting a kayak you will have a better idea of your needs.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Kayaks can be used in other disciplinesAnother thing to bear in mind is that kayaks have the flexibility to be used in other disciplines other than the one it was designed for. Some sit-on-top kayaks can be used for touring, having fun with friends and family on the beach or getting wet in the surf. General purpose kayaks can be used in most environment with care. They are great on the river and in the surf. Sea kayaks are not just for touring. You will have fun in the waves as well.

Try different types of kayaks. Ask friends if you can try their kayaksPlease have fun on the water and be aware of other kayakers around you. There are often codes of conduct in most disciplines. Ask local people for their knowledge to avoid any embarrassing situations.

Finding out about the area you are going to kayak in will make your trip that much more safer and enjoyable. If you are going to kayak in the sea please make sure you get local advice before hand. Flat beaches and Harbour entrances can often hide strong tides and under currents. In next to no time you could be a long way out and getting tired.

Enjoy your time on the water and be safe.

dundee free weekend tickets for radio 1

I do hope that ebay sees fit to cancel any tickets for auction for the FREE concert in Dundee this weekend. Have noticed that some of these tickets are selling for200 and feel this is unfair to all who registered to watch this event..This is one of the biggest events Dundee has hosted and we dont want it spoilt by greedy ticket touts.Please see fit to remove any sellers from this sight.

Heather

Using Flash Photography - Direct and Diffused Light

The problems of using the built-in flash on an instamatic camera are familiar to us all - bleached colours, harsh shadows and red eyes. On reflective surfaces like glass or metal this kind of direct flash creates a hotspot - a reflection of the flash unit. If you are arranging more than one object to be photographed in a simple compostition, direct flash will illuminate the objects in the foreground and any fine details or objects in the background may appear poorly lit or hard to view.This is because the small size of the built-in flash on an instamatic camera probably gives the worst results of any lighting set-up. The smaller the light source the harsher the shadow.A small flash source creates a harsh shadow. A rule of thumb is: the smaller the light source the harsher the shadow, the larger the light source the softer the shadow. With an instamatic camera, switching off the flash and using daylight or daylight lamps will give a more even light because you have a larger light source. You can also use two lights to ensure both sides of an object are adequately illuminated. If you can add an external flash unit or your camera has a sync cord for an external flash then the lighting possibilities improve dramatically. The light source will be bigger and the reflections on shiny objects can be placed to one side, rather than straight back at the camera.

On a bright sunny day the sun creates a harsh shadow because it is a singular light source. On a cloudy day the whole sky becomes the light source and the shadows are greatly softened as the light is diffused. This diffused light creates optimum lighting conditions for photography.Using Flash - Bounce Flash PhotographyWays of diffusing light:If you have an external flash unit for your instamatic you can position it behind some tissue paper on a clothes drying frame and attach the flash to your camera with a sync cord. Professional external flash units may have a diffuser cone to slip over the front of the flash.An SLR camera with a pop-up flash can be fitted with a soft screen pop-up flash diffuser.An SLR with a hot shoe can be fitted with a camera mounted swivelling flash unit. This enables you to "bounce the flash" : direct the flash onto a large surface, typically the
ceiling and reflect light from it. If the ceiling is not white it will
give you a colour cast which you will need to correct at the picture
editing stage.It's important to remember that bouncing off the ceiling can lose up to one stop of light which has to be compensated for i.e. if your flash is set on f 8 then your camera must be set on f 5.6, or if your camera is set to f 8 your flash must be set to f 11.If bouncing the light off the ceiling is impracticle, it may be too high or the wrong colour, you can substitute a large white surface e.g. a piece of white cardboard. Mount the camera on a tripod, (or find a friend) direct the camera-mounted flash up and hold a large piece of white cardboard over it at a height of at least a foot on an angle of 45 degrees. Although the ceiling lies horizontally, the cardboard, being substantially smaller must be angled towards the object to be lit. It doesn't have to be exact but make sure the light doesn't drop down too far in front or too far behind the object. Remember you're trying to light the object.Summary
Flash is obviously a brilliant tool for lighting photographs but to be used well it does require proper equipment like a tripod and diffusers and due care in the setting up and positioning of the lighting equipment. Perfectly good shots can be taken with an instamatic camera, it's just better to switch Flash off and use daylight or Daylight Lamps. If Flash photography is not for you at this stage our eBay Guide for tips on creating brilliant photos with a simple camera and daylight is coming soon.

Looking After Your Skateboard

This guide should hopefully give youa better idea aboutlooking after your skateboard. It breaks down the maintenance required and prevention tips for each component.

1) Bearings

Bearings are the most common component to break from general usage because they are not maintained properly. First of all when buying bearings you should make sure that they are clean and undamaged before inserting into the wheels (check that the seals are on correctly). Most damage occurs when water or dust gets into the bearing increasing friction and ultimately reducing the performance or completely rendering the bearings unusable.

Another common form of bearing damage is inserting the bearings incorrectly. In our shop we use a specialist tool known in the industry as a 'bearing press'. I'm sorrythe nameis not more exciting than that! The bearing press will remove old bearings and replace them with new ones in under a minute. I'm not saying everyone should have one, but the more advanced skateboarder could consider it as you can pick them up from around 20. For you out there who would rather use a screwdriver then good luck, but be careful as a tiny dent in the shield can significantly reduce bearing performance. Once the bearings are in place make sure there are washers in between the bearings and truck axel and nut as this will reduce the risk of damage when tightening the nut on the truck and it will also reduce friction.

Bearings need to be well lubricated. Do NOT use WD40! Though it is useful for some types of lubrication,bearings need something smoother and longer lasting as they are constantly in use when skateboarding; basically bearings receive more use than your door or garden gate! Specialised speed lube or creme should be used and can be bought for only a few quid! A worthwhile investment as your bearings will be smoother and due to reduced friction will last much longer with reduced risk of rust.

Do not get them wet or dirty! For those of you who practice new tricks on grass you will probably find that your bearings are full of mud and your wheels are discoloured. The best way of preventing this is not to do it! I know it is easier and softer than concrete, but you will have to learn one day! If however your bearings do get muddy, sandy, wet or you generally want to give them a clean then this is what you shoulddo: remove the bearings carefully, preferably with a bearing press. Check for damage, if the seal is dented or you see other damage then unfortunately you need a new set of bearings, but at least you now don't have to clean them! Do not dismantle the bearings when cleaning them!Using kitchen paper or something similar wipe as much off the bearings as possible getting all the lose material. Damp cotton buds are good for the next bit - wipe all the smaller material and oil off the bearings. Do notsoak the bearings in water, only use a lightly damp cotton bud. Once the bearings are clean use a dry cotton budto dry them. Place them on kitchen roll and leave them in a warm dry place such as by a radiator as this will remove any excess moisture. Finally using proper bearing lubricants lubricate the bearings and put them back into the wheels.

Bearing performance is measured on several scales. The most commonly known are the abec scale and the 'skate rated' indicator. I have another guide regarding skateboard bearings explaining the various scales and helping you buy the right bearings for you. Please see my guides and reviews for more information.

2) Wheels

Wheels come in many different sizes and densities. Though there is less to know about wheel maintenance, you should consider the following. Soft wheels should be used in skateparks and on smooth surfaces. If you take them on the road then you may find your new wheels contain grit. Grit may make indents, get stuck in and even rip your wheels. If you intend to skate on roads then you need harder wheels. The density of wheels is indicated by either an 'a', 'd' or 'duro', being short for 'durometer'. Essentially they all mean the same thing and are an indication of the hardness or softness of a wheel. 78a is a very soft wheel and 110a is a very hard wheel. the majority of wheels come in between 99a and 101a. Unless you know specifically what you want then 99a - 101a should be suitable.

You should check your wheels before skating for cracks and other damage. Preventing cracks and damage is possible by cleaning them after use to stop water and dirt getting into cracks and dents. It is also advisable to avoid grit, sand, sharp objects and mud. If grit gets into the wheel then you shold carefully remove it as the force of your skating can push it further into the wheel and is a common cause of wheels splitting.

3) Trucks

Most good trucks are made from materials such as titanium, aluminium and other non rusting materials. For those of you with steel trucks you need to keep an eye out for rust. Rust will reduce the durability of the truck and could break them. You should check in all the holes, grooves and indents for other damage and dirt that could contribute to rust and other failings of the truck.

Cushions, bushings and king-pins are all parts of the truck that sees use, but unlike the axel the damage is harder to notice. Regularly checking all parts is a good adea as bushings and cushions can split and king-pins may be made from a corrodable material and if the truck itself isnt then you may miss it.

When grinding you should make sure the curb or rail is waxed as the friction could cause problems. When grinding the axel will take most of the abuse, so making sure they are ok for skating is essential. If they are worn down too much then you need to replace them.

4) Bolts

Bolts need to be tightened to insure that they are not too loose. Loose bolts can damage themselves, the deck and the trucks. Some bolts may also rust which reduces their strength. Regularly changing bolts, or using more expensive, but more durable bolts is advisable. You should also counter-sink the bolts into the deck as this reduces movement and will protect them more, not to mention making it easer to skate.

5) Deck and Grip

First of all keep the deck dry. Do not skate in the rain or when it is very damp as the moisture can reduce the strength of the adhesive glue that holds the layers of ply together. It can also reduce the strength of the adhesive holding the griptape to the deck. If damp soaks into the deck it may rot or weaken the wood making it more liable to snapping or sagging. Water on the griptape may also act as a lubricant which will damage shoes when riding.

Make sure the deck you are buying is 7 ply, hardrock Canadian maple! Other materials are ok for beginners, but Canadian maple is the most popular material and is proven to be superior for skateboarding!

Naturally decks will get damaged, if you notice big cracks then itwould be wise to get a new deck. When failing to complete tricks some of my friands tent to throw their skateboards, though this is good at relieving anger, you are probably not doing the board too much good.

Hopefully you found this guide useful. If you have any other questions feel free to contact me. I also have an eBay shop: The Skateboard Shop

PAYPAL BUYER PROTECTION: Beware of section 13.13 excuse

On 19th June 2008, I won an auction on eBay, (hosted by scammer 99mushroom999). I paid immediately with PayPal. I had bid on the item with confidence
that it was covered under PayPal's buyer protection policy to 150, so
should anything go wrong, PayPal would refund my money in full.A day afterwards, eBay and PayPal sent me a message that the seller had closed his account and that the listing was thus null and void and PayPal instigated an automatic "buyer complaint".Unfortunately, A BUYER COMPLAINT is not the same thing as a dispute opened under BUYER PROTECTION.In their terms and conditions, a buyer complaint is what is made for an eBay express item and DOES NOT GUARANTEE A REFUND if you receive no goods and the seller has no money in their account, unlike buyer protection which they claim WILL refund you to the limit of 150 or 500, (depending on what the auction listing states), no matter what the seller's account status. However, PayPal currently prevent the buyer from "upgrading" the complaint to a protection dispute, thus depriving buyers of the right to be refunded if the seller has no money in their PayPal account.So, just a quick note to warn you that if you are a buyer who didn't receive items that you have paid for with PayPal, and the seller has withdrawn all the money in their account, you MAY have been turned down by PayPal for a full refund. PayPal may have written to you and informed you that they could not pay out as it's a buyer complaint. THIS IS THE SECTION 13.13 EXCUSE, and if it's been used on you, please fight your corner.If you are refused a claim, there may be certain ways to fight this refusal by PayPal. In particular, make a counter-claim using the "section 13.1.b argument". They will usually guide you to section 13.13 of their agreement (hence the term "section 13.13 excuse") which covers "buyer complaint policy", but this is actually related to eBay Express items and you should write back to them and tell them that you're claiming under point "b" of section 13.1, which is "buyer protection policy" and therefore linked in turn to section 13.14. State your case under PayPal complaint in European Union link.Also, if you feel that PayPal have made it easy for a fraudster to rip you off, then ask for evidence that they did actually initially verify the identity of a seller. If they cannot provide this, then this is probably a sign that they didn't undertake the FSA-required procedures to establish identity of the seller, thus rendering them open to charges of negligence.All "money-handlers" must "know their client"; this means that, as you'll be familiar with, they have to verify the personal and bank account details of their clients - that's a European requirement and PayPal are not special or exempt. If they persist in refusing to give you the information that you may need to mount a CIVIL case against a seller, (as against a criminal case, which should initially be referred to the police to allow them to run around and do their job - and don't be discouraged by them saying that it's not their problem or job - it is), then this seems to me to qualify as aiding and abetting a criminal to benefit from their crime and the proceeds of their crime and you should take the matter further with the financial ombudsman and, of course, report PayPal to the relevant police authorities as an accessory to the initial crime.SMALL UPDATE: A mere **2 hours** after this guide hit the streets, PayPal wrote to me to say that there is a technical problem within their system which currently causes PayPal to automatically send a section 13.13 excuse, advising buyers that they won't receive a refund if there is no money in the seller's account, BUT that if your claim is under 13.1.b, (which is therefore linked to 13.14), then PayPal buyer protection DOES apply. HOWEVER, unless, like me, you write and complain about the initial judgement, it's highly likely that Paypal will rely on injured buyers to shrug and not follow the claim further. PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE, if you are a buyer who has lost money after using PayPal to fund an eBay purchase, DO NOT ALLOW PayPal to fob you off with a "tough luck" message in the form of a section 13.13 excuse. If you want a template to send to them in such a case, please vote "YES" for this guide and then contact me to ask for one.IN THE INTERESTS OF BALANCE, if PayPal do refund me the amount that was stolen from me through non-delivery of an item bought on 19th June, I shall announce that fact in this guide.FINAL UPDATE No. 2: SUCCESS! Less than 24 hours after filing a complaint against PayPal's use of the section 13.13 excuse, they have now written to me to advise that there remains a technical "issue" in the automated systems which led to the excuse being communicated to me, but that that excuse message should not have been sent for the following reason: "Buyers paying by Paypal for an eBay listed item ARE protected under rule 3.1.b and section 13.14; this means that if there is a problem which necessitates a refund, then PayPal will make that refund, (up to the relevant limit of 150 or 500 - check the listing), even if the seller has closed down and the account has no money in it."WORRYINGLY: I have been advised that this technical "issue" is now in process of being resolved, (following my complaint on 30th June), which means that potentially, PayPal have retained an awful lot of clients' monies which should have been refunded.DID YOU SUFFER A FINANCIAL LOSS under the impression that your purchase was protected? Did you receive a section 13.13 excuse? Did you abide by their terms and conditions? If so, contact PayPal and demand them to reconsider the case.Thank you for reading this far, please vote "YES" for this guide.(Quick message for 99mushroom999: "I'll be in Canada within the next few months. I'm looking forward to it.")

Sellers Beware!

Just a note to let sellers know that buyers are using the new feedback system to threaten and scare sellers. Iv had 3 already since it started this week threatening me with negative feedback even though there was nothing wrong with the item. They are and i quote saying refund me or i will leave negative, i am letting you know i am just about to leave negative! ect ect, not even saying they are returning the item they are hoping for a freebie by doing this. What are sellers supposed to do now? why on earth have ebay done this? what if a buyer never pays for the item we can't leave feedback to let others know yet buyers can do it to us its just not fair, something need to be done its just not going to work.

If you agree vote yes to get things back to how they were.

How to APPLY Mineral Makeup Foundation FLAWLESS FINISH

How to Apply Mineral Make-up Foundation for a Flawless Finsh Every Time...

If You Find This Guide Informative Please Click the Yes Button at the Bottom of the Page. Thank You !

Quality Natural Mineral Foundation contains no alcohol, perfume, dye or fillers and is very concentrated, so a little goes a long way. Professional products are also non-comedogenic and perfect for sensitive skin.

The information in this guide is based on the principles of application for Youngblood (YB) minerals, however you can apply it to any brand.

1. When using your moisturiser, make sure it has completely penetrated the skin before applying the mineral foundation. Prior to applying the minerals, lightly dust with a product such as Youngblood Rice Setting Powder to prime the face (this is particularly useful if you are prone to oily skin).

2. Remove the clear sticker off the foundation shaker top, turn the jar upside down, and tap a few times, which will dispense a controlled amount of foundation into the lid of the jar or onto a tissue. Then, using an applicator of your choice (we recommend the Kabuki brushes) apply makeup. In no time youll determine exactly how much you need.

3. For light to medium coverage, use less product, apply with a YB Large Kabuki. Also blending equal amounts of minerals to our Rice Setting Powder will give you lighter coverage.

4. For heavier coverage, use more product and apply with a YB Small Kabuki or the Ultimate Foundation Kabuki Brush.

In Summary Swirl, Tap, Buff

SWIRL: a small amount of the minerals in the lid with your brush until the entire product is tucked into the bristles. (Push down on your brush while swirling it is designed to fit the area of the lid, and you will not harm the brush by doing this)

TAP: away excess minerals. The minerals should not be visible on the outside of the brush. Always tap your brush gently against the side of the lid with the bristles facing upwards to ensure the minerals fall inside the brush.

BUFF: the minerals onto the skin in a circular motion, starting on the outside of your face near your cheekbone, swirling as you go. Buff around your face and then approach your forehead, cheeks and nose. Buff, buff, buff, until you are satisfied with the coverage. Less is more when applying the minerals so if you want more coverage 1st try buffing a little firmer onto your skin, and if there still isnt the coverage you want then add some more product.

Remember that Youngblood mineral make-up is a concealer, foundation, powder and sunscreen in the one product. Unlike a powder, mineral make-up is not drying as it contains NO TALC and rather then a dry look, it will give your skin a beautiful appearance of a moist glow.

Occasionally in some clients with oily skin it can appear that your skin is becoming a little oiler especially if your skin has been accustomed to heavier make-up. Do not be concerned though, as this transition stage will soon pass and you should experience a lessening in oil production over time as the minerals help to normalise your skin.

In the interim you can always use the YB Rice Setting Powder to prime your skin and to give a light touch-up in the day if needed.
With a little practice, youll soon fall in love with mineral make-up!

My names Kathy and Im a professional in the health and beauty industry. Thanks for stopping by and reading my guide. For more information drop by my eBay store at www.stores.ebay.com.au/everydaywinners and check out what quality mineral make-up should look like.

Kathy

Ladies Shoes And Clothing Conversion Guide

eBay has fast becomethe worlds largest online shopping community and atsome point or another you are sure to find an item of clothing or shoes you wish to purchase from an overseas seller. For some this is where the headaches begin...........size conversions!

This guide will give you conversions for ladies shoes and clothing

Shoes

US shoe sizing is based upon European sizes which can make it either very simple or very confusing :0)

UK EuropeanUS

1 34 4

2 35 5

3 36 6

4 37 7

5 38 8

639 9

7 4010

8 41 11

9 42 12

Included within these are half sizes which run at the same conversion

Clothing

UKFrenchGerman US

8 36 34 4

10 38 36 6

12 40 38 8

14 42 40 10

16 44 4212

I hope this proves helpful!

Cath Kidston / Vintage Shabby Chic fans look here

I just thought I'd share the fact I have just bought bedding

Fish / Koi Carp need oxygen too!

Its a common problem in hot weather for fish to be oxygen starved, this occurs when the higher levels of sun light increase plant growth starving the water of oxygen.

The best way to getoxygen back into the water is to install an air pump and air stones.

The pump forces air through the air stones causing tiny bubbles to stream through the water, this helps to oxygenate the water.

Well oxygenated water is vital for fish to breath and live a happy life.

So how do you know if oxygen levels are low?

If your fish are spending a lot of time on the surface gulping air this is a good indication that levels are very low. this could befatal for your fish. and you need to get oxygen into the water asap.

The fast way to do this is to empty some water, lets say 1/4, and get the hose out to refill it. Make sure the hose is high enough out of the water to cause a stream of bubbles when the fresh water hits the surface.

This is only a temporary solution though, the oxygen you are putting into the water will be gone in just a few hours.

If you are running a filter system, (you are running a filter system arn't you!!!!)another quick and easy way to get air into the water is to install a "venturi". Thisis a small tube let into your filter outlet pipe about a foot from the end. this will draw in air as the water rushes past, oxygenating the water before it re-enters the pond.

Again this is not a full solution, but will help the situation untill your air pump system has been installed.

There are lots of air pumps and stones on the market, the size you want will depend on the volume of water in your pond.

If you would like some advice on which system to use, send us an email, or give Icklesham Koi a ring on 01424 815200. we will be more than happy to help.

Bob De Freitas.

Nintendo Gameboy Buying Guide - SP, DS, Advance, Micro

This is just a short guide about the different types of Gameboys currently on the market.

Nintendo have gone a bit wild with the Gameboy Advance series, and to date have produced four different types.

Gameboy Advance - you can play GB and GBA games on this, the first GBA
model, and is available relatively cheaply now. The biggest
disadvantage to this console, is its colour screen - isn't backlit.

Gameboy Advance SP - same features as the GBA, except it is now in a
'flip' design (similar to laptop/phone). It also features a backlight -
believe me, this is worth having. Now available quite cheaply, new and
used.

Gameboy Advance Micro - The newest edition to the GBA family, and the
smallest. Similar in size to a mobile phone, with a screen backlight.
Unless you are under 10 years of age, this will get very annoying, the
screen is tiny. Cheapest to buy new, ideal Christmas or birthday
present - around 60-70. Can only play GBA games.

Gameboy DS - this has the ability to play GBA and DS games. The DS
games, are excellent, compared to the GBA games. The dual screen, isn't
just a novelty, it is actually useful.

Price guide (console only)
GB Advance - 40
GB Advance SP - 60
GBA Micro - 65
GB DS - 90

All the consoles are available in a wide range of colours, games are
cheap on eBay, and accessories are also cheap and readily available.

If you can, go for the DS, it is worth it. It is around half the price
of the Sony PSP, and with its Wi-Fi capability, is excellent value - if
you find the right games for you, you'll enjoy hours of fun.

How to purchase AUTHENTIC designer jeans on Ebay!!!!!!!

Finding authentic designer jeans on eBay.These days, the price of designer jeans can range anywhere from $100 - $300. Many of us don't want to shell out that much money for a pair of denim, but we also can't resist the amazing comfortable, soft, and durable texture of designer jeans. The solution?: We come on eBay to find some good deals on the bottoms that we love. eBay is flooded with thousands of designer jeans and unbelievably cheap prices; prices that are almost too good to be true. How do some of these sellers not break the bank by selling hundreds of pairs of jeans retailed at $300 for a mere $75? The answer: Most designer jeans on eBay are counterfeit. That's right, produced in some sweatshop not in the beautiful US of A in some horrid conditions, with the poorest quality denim available in the world. Do you really want to spend almost $100 on a pair of "designer jeans" that are worth less than $20? A lot of the time it can be difficult to distinguish between what's real and what's not. So what's the answer to this dilemma? Don't just be turned off because of the vast number of fakes here on eBay, but learn to find the authentic gems in the haystack. This is why you're reading this guide.Back to the Basics: Easy things that you can notice that will give you a good idea of the authenticity of a seller's item.

Mutliple pairs: If a seller has many pairs (2 ) of the same brand of jeans, in the same wash and cut, with the same pictures, the same or different sizes, then it's a good idea to stay away. Many of the counterfeit sellers purchase their fake jeans wholesale from companies in Asia for about $5 a pair. Then they try to rip off innocent buyers on eBay. It's rare that any high end designer jean company will sell their jeans wholesale in cheap prices to eBay sellers. They have enough buyers as it is; they don't need to rid themselves of their stock. However, there are still many unknowing sellers on eBay (non-wholesale) who buy fake jeans and then re-list them, believing they are authentic the entire time. Although it is not intentional, these fake jeans are just as bad. Be sure to keep reading to get the best ways of determining authenticity.
Stock photos: If a seller only has stock photos (that is, pictures from the website) of the jeans they are selling, don't bit until you're able to secure some real photos of the jeans. Counterfeit sellers don't want to take actual pictures of the fake jeans a) because informed buyers (like you, after you read this guide) will be able to determine the authenticity and b) they're incredibly lazy and don't care about their customers (that's why they're selling fake jeans, duh). But hit that 'back' button on your browser if the listing doesn't have any real pictures. The seller might be new to eBay or they just might have forgotten to take pictures; always request pictures before you make a final conclusion.Intermediate: Requires a little more effort on the part of the buyer, but still fairly easy ways to determine authenticity.

Cut numbers: This method doesn't work for all jeans - some jeans do not have cut numbers at all. This method works best for Seven for All Mankind and Citizens of Humanity jeans. Cut numbers are numbers that manufacturers stamp on their jeans in order to label a certain batch. They can range from a 3 number sequence up to 10 numbers, or more. They can be amazing indicators of fake jeans, as counterfeiters usually take one authentic cut # that has known to be in production, and they make thousands of pairs of fake jeans using the same cut #. However, similar cut #s are very rare in authentic jeans, as only a few pairs are produced in each batch of the same cut #s. Every pair of jeans has a cut #, and sellers will usually either list them in their descriptions, or if not, you can always ask for the cut #. Once you find out a cut number, and you want to determine the authenticity of the jeans, just do a simple search on eBay. Enter the cut # in the search field, and be sure to check the box that says "search title and description". If only one or two (or three) pairs of jeans with that cut # shows up, then your jeans are most likely authentic. However, if a lot of listings pop up, then STAY AWAY.
Searching for obvious defects in jeans: Some jeans have very distinguishing qualities, and fake jeans are often unable to replicate these qualities. For example, in True Religion jeans, the back pockets have a very distinct horseshoe design, which counterfeiters are unable to capture the shape of. The picture below shows the back pocket of an AUTHENTIC pair of jeans (from my own collection):

stolen bikes

Hi,

Just a small note some may find useful. A few weeks ago I had 3 MX bikes stolen.

I had a prospective buyer from e-bay call on a number given (1st mistake).

Said he was really interested and could he view. I gave my address (2nd mistake) he didn't turn up and next night bikes advertised plus two others stolen. yzf 250 ktm 125 and (yz 80 which was recovered) He must have thought christmas came early.

I had his number stored in my phone and rang him, he admitted stealing them and laughed, even started bike up as my son was sobbing for its return. No words to describle such low life!!!!!!!

So a message to all trusting sellers, as I am sure most of us are, please don't make the same mistakes. I am sure he does this quite often.

Incidently if anyone has any info please contact me direct. We have many leads!!.

Suffer the loss or give bad feed back ???????

If you get taken by a scammer and the amount you lost is small should you just let it go or give honest bad feedback and let your own feedback suffer as a result ???

I had not been using the bay for long but I had a 100% feedback and then I saw an add offering Sky TV free on your computer , It was only 3-50 so I sent off my money (via paypal), in return I got a very badly written mail that was totally unworkable, to my mind a total scam.

At first I thought oh well its only 3-50 so let it go, but then I thought wait a minute how many 3-50s is he going to get off this and how many people will get ripped off ? so I started by giving him a bad feedback and saying what had happened honestly.

BIG MISTAKE ! , my 100% feedback dropped drastically because I hadnt tried to sort it with him but if I had of done he would have continued the scam with others . I then reported the scam to ebay with full details and lo and behold 3 days later I recieved a warning off ebay telling me not to deal with this person due to him breaking copyright etc.(bit late that).

I then asked ebay to reinstate my 100% feedback due to me being ripped off and saving others from the same as they had agreed that it was a scam but because I hadnt tried to resolve the situation with the scammer ???? my lost feedback reputation would stand !!!.

I have now well started to regain my % due to the fair way I buy and sell (Im not a trader), but can someone explain what I did wrong apart from being honest and trying to save others money ??.

As a footnote :- The scammer first of all hid his feedback and then changed his name , So take care out there because I learnt the hard way that it doesnt always pay to be honest.

Mal .

The Free Stuff People Sell To Make Money on Ebay

The Free Stuff People Sell To Make Money on Ebay - Read It Here For Free.

There are numerous ebayers selling information on where to get things for free or heavily discounted. The information you then purcased at sometime a ridiculous price could have been found for free with a little time on Google. Below is free information to sites people sell on ebay with a short description of each:

guba.com- This is the site for free TV shows and for the american shows that have yet to be aired in the UK such as Lost season 2. The best thing is this site can download the show as an avi file, psp compatible file, ipod video file or you can watch in a streaming format there and then.

Also try peekvid.com and flickpeek.com for more films!!!

ovguide.com for everything from films / sports / documentary's etc no download required and free

apnretail.co.uk - ever wondered how some ebayers pick up such fantastic bargains? Well when sellers mispell their items buyers will not pick it up in their searches. This site finds misspelt items hence allowing you to grab some real bargains.

beelinetv.com -Get free sky TV on your PC! -Not quite. This site has access to loads of channels world wide that you can watch for free on your pc.

Want pay as you go sim's check out easymobile.com 1 and 10 credit and more when you refer a friend. You can even choose your own number for free or have a premium number and the call rates are one of the best around.

Mobile phones are selling for crazy prices on Ebay but with a bit of research you can pick up brand new cheaper. An example would be a PINK NOKIA 6111 sells around 150 on ebay and you can pick up a brand new one for about 135. Think big name supermarkets.

That's all for now folks. If you found this useful please rate it and check out my ebay items for sale.

WARNING FAKE MOLTON BROWN ON EBAY!

Hi there, If you love your Molton Brown like i do then please read this! Yes I too have fallen victim to the current scam circulating on ebay at the moment. Some sellers are selling FAKE Molton Brown. The common fake items to look out for are: Rose Graniti Fine liquid Handwash 300ml and Celestial Maracuja Bathing Nectar 300ml. When you receive your item all will look ok , but after close inspection of the product you will notice that the smell is nothing like the genuine thing. Rose Graniti Fine liquid Handwash has a distinctive spicy smell like nothing else and the consistency is it should run clear and not be lumpy in the bottle, and not smell of cheap handwash. Sometimes the lids are easy to open and the pumps are not quite the same either. All Molton Brown products have all their ingredients listed on the bottles, some of the FAKE items do not.I would strongly urge you to always read the neutral and negative feedback of the seller and not just the positive comments. I have bought alot of Molton Brown on ebay and can honestly say until now I have been very happy with my purchases, but a few sellers are spoiling it for everyone else. PLEASE CHECK ALL FEEDBACK'S BEFORE BIDDING! I hope this information has been of help to you, good luck with your bids.

Buying A Bass Guitar

Well, first things first, buying a new bass isn't easy --
especially when you have no idea what you want (sounds familiar to me).
But on eBay, the process can be streamlined a lot.
But don't get lax! It's still a pretty difficult job. So here's a
couple of things I personally do to start off: Check My Budget, Think
What I'm Looking For, Check The International Lots, and then Narrow It
Down. Checking The Budget
This is real important, because you can't get no bang for your buck
these days. If you have even a rough idea of what you want to spend and
what you don't, then your search will be a lot easier. Use the advanced
search function to stick in a price range if you have a very specific
budget -- that way you'll really be able to streamline your shopping. Decide What You're Looking For Well, this is almost a no-brainer, were it not for the fact that I never have any idea what to look for on eBay. I rack my thoughts and come up empty each time -- so make sure you have
even a general idea. For posterities sake, I always shop for
Rickenbackers because they're my favourite brand of bass, so try any
brand out (even obscure brands like Alembic or Sei). Specifics help,
but if you're just window shopping, then I do have a great way of
giving you some eye-candy real quick:1. Browse to the Bass category, and then press Advanced Search...meandering, but it makes the tool a mite easier to use.2. Type in a price range about halfway down the page.3. Set your viewing preferences, but give yourself 200 lots per page (I alwas use Price Lowest First, keeps me excited =P )4. Leaving the search field empty, press the Search button. Voila! A glut of basses ready to be viewed. But the next step really helps bring more to your eye. International Lots!
Hopefully, you should be ok with ordering internationally -- because
eBay UK isn't the best place to shop for basses. International lots
really opens up your shopping -- my eBay bass came from Germany for a
great price. To get international lots that will ship to the UK, simply
use the Advanced Search tool again, and select "View Items Available To
The UK" and set the price to "Any Currency". This will bring up a fair
few more lots -- but if you're just window shopping, try setting "View
Items Worldwide". You might not be able to buy those basses, but you
can see some really amazing things.However -- international shipping can be extremely damaging for several reasons.
If you're set on buying a bass from anywhere outside the EU, be
prepared to pay Import Duty. The "Gift" option is slowly losing its
ability to get past customs (come on, someone from Australia is sending
a 500 bass to a guy in Britain as a gift? Give the officials some credit). The shipping fees can be phenomenal. My first bass came from an American site, and the shipping was 90! Perhaps not too bad for some of you, but bad enough for a 15 year old me. Make sure the packaging is sufficient!! It'd
be pretty horrific to see your lovely new bass in two pieces thanks to
shoddy packaging. USPS and UPS can be pretty lax with their package
handling, trust me. If the seller is including a hard case, then
brilliant -- but make sure to remind him/her that the bass must still
be comfortable inside the case. All basses must have the neck joint and
heel reinforced with bubble wrap -- thats the part by the body, and the
part where the headstock joins the neck. The headstock is particularly
fragile -- would you prefer a chip in the body or a snapped head? If
there is no hard case, the bass simply must
be in a huge amount of bubble wrap, and a large cardboard box that
isn't liable to split. Whatever you do, don't worry about asking the
seller to watch out for these things -- if he/she is smart, they won't
be offended and will simply see you as being concerned over what you've
just spent a wad of cash on. This paragraph on shipping goes for all
basses, really -- internationally shipped or not. Don't look at Jaco's
handling of a bass -- your bass is not akin to Rambo, and doesn't like
being beaten on. Narrow It DownWhen
you finally have an idea of what you want, you'll obviously want to
start narrowing it down. The things to look for in the item description
are the same for any instrument, and involves several questions: 1. Is it New? This
one is a no-brainer. If its new, why are they selling it? If it's an
eBay shop, you know why....but never trust an auctioneer who says "As
new....from 1995". What the hell have they been doing with it? 2. If its second-hand, what is the condition like?
Aha....you have to think laterally with this one. Some auctioneers
barely write about the bass -- something like "Second-hand bass been
gigged with will throw in gig bag questions welcomed". From that, how
do you think the condition will be if its been gigged? And if they're
throwing in a gig bag, does that mean it has ever seen the inside of a
hard case? The worst auctions are the ones with no
pictures, or simply a promo picture or a 10 feet away picture. The best
auctions are the ones that tell you first-hand what the cosmetic damage
is, with detailed pictures of those damages. Belt-rash, Dimples,
Scratches, Chips are extremely common on eBay basses -- I once saw a
Ricky with a cracked scratchplate, enough belt rash to make a bad case
of herpes blush, thousands of litle dents and dimples on the back and a
few chips on the headstock and lower body curve. And the seller still
managed to take a picture of each example. Don't be afraid to
email the seller with the question "Is it damaged in any way?". Even
that is showing interest in the item, and most sellers welcome any
attention (if it means the prospect of a sale). If the seller gets
offended, is far too vague or doesn't answer, I wouldn't even bother to
do business with them. Their loss, not yours. Make or break
damage is the stuff that affects a bass even after repairs -- a broken
headstock or neck joint should be avoided at all costs (especially on a
neck-through bass), because even after repairs you've got a hell of a
weak point on a bass that handles at least a hundred lbs of string
pressure. Cosmetic damages shouldn't faze you unless you're after a
collectors bass -- the way I see it, a bass with a scratch has
history..."I got that one when I was throwing it in the air at a
gig....I got that 'un from dropping it down my stairs". You don't see
that with a bass you handle with silk gloves. Great auctions are
those where the bass needs repairs/replacements of the mechanics or
electronics. A bass with a broken tuner or two is easily remedied (and
a new tuner really spritzes up the bass) at a cost of maybe 40, a
buggered bridge can be a gift from heaven (new bridges make the bass
sound and feel like a completely new bass) at the cost of maybe
60-120, and new electronics opens up a lot of upgrade potential
(preamps, pickups, fancy doo-whizzles). Don't be put off by these
auctions!! Many sellers knock a huge discount off the price. A friend
of mine got a Rickenbacker 4003 for 200 because the electronics needed
re-wiring, a tuner was broken and the bridge was loose. 3. Is it stock?
That is, have they replaced any parts? This normally goes hand in hand
with the previous question. If you're a snobby collecter (no offense =P
), you'll want a bass that is all
stock or at the very least you'll want the seller to throw in the stock
parts. If you're a guy like me, replacement parts can be a gift from
heaven (especially if they're better than the stock parts). However,
stock basses generally sell for cheaper than non-stock basses -- even
if the replacement parts are shoddy. 4. Can I trust the seller?
This isn't case of just looking through feedback -- if you see 10
positive, and 1 negative, and all the positive feedback are from buyers
of basses, odds are you can trust him/her. If the 10 positive are from
sellers, and the negative is from someone who tried to buy a bass off
them, would you still trust him/her? Remember to check a sellers' feedback thoroughly! Ask them about any negative or withdrawn feedback -- they shouldn't mind as long as you aren't abrasive. 5. Can I trust the shipping? This
is extremely important if you're buying internationally. If his postage
amount is too low or you know the chosen service to be shoddy, offer to
pay more for a better shipping service. Don't
try and persuade them to let you pay less for postage -- it's rude, and
will probably lose you the lot unless you give an extremely good
reason. Any experience with the selected service is important -- I know
for a fact that DHL are real buggers for calling when you're out, but
their shipping is extremely fast (a 28 day expected wait for my first
bass was actually only a 5 day wait), while USPS call when you're out,
are slow, and are not as careful with your package (whatever I ordered
from them, my box was ripped and dented but the item was luckily in one
piece). I've had no experience with FedEX, but haven't heard much good
about them. 6. Do I really really want it? Are
you sure? Double-sure? Not going to sell it in a few months? I have to
make absolutely certain that I want something...but sometimes I get
excited and get caught up in the eBay chase! Remember to keep things in
perspective! And always ask yourself: Can I still afford it?
If you really want it, but it goes just over your price range,
sometimes you end up bidding over your limit and get a bit stuck!There
is the guide for you! I hope it was helpful to some degree, and if you
want any more help/random conversations/dodgy business deals, then
contact me through eBay.