Thursday, August 19, 2010
Metallica UK CD Single Discography '83-'03
Nigerian Scams Buying Mobile Phones
I've traded successfully with E-bay up until now but have just put my daughters mobile phone up for sale over the last 7 days. It was apparent from day 1 that all was not normal:
1. The bids started coming in straight away and the prices were strangely large for such early bidding
2. All bidders had no feedback.
3. We got e-mails written in bad English from people trying to get us to buy phones
4. At end of bidding, the price was exceptionally high - very tempting to sell. Surprise, surprise - winning bidder wanted it shipped to Nigeria.
5. Future tips - stipulate no Nigerian bidders, all bidders must have feedback of 10
ITEM DESCRIPTION AND PICTURE THEFT
Ebay clearly mentions on thier policy, that ebay members are not allowed to use another ebay users pictures or descriptions on thier listing or "about me" page without the owner's permission.
But there are a lot of sellers out there, still copying other people descriptions, why this? why do thiskind of seller still exist on ebay? well ebay do not really check on thier description, until the original owner of the description reports it to ebay. If you are big seller and you sell multiple items, you don't have the time to check each seller on ebay if they copied item description or not.
So my point is, why this small minory of sellers don't have their own ideas on how make their description? why copy somebody elses descriptions? like this seller (majka2526), this seller put a bidon my auction, then retracted afterwards to find out what the maximum ofother buyers, then retracedher bids afterwards. not satisfied what she/he had done.they then copied almost everything in my descriptions in my listing, into their listing, our item description that been copied by this seller is Item number: 9329690161.They copiedmy descriptions to into their lisitng Item number: 9332100851.
THESE INTELLECTUAL RIGHTSTHEAVES SOMETIMES SAY THEY ARE THE VICTIMS WHEN CONFRONTED SAYING THEY ARE THE VICTIMS.
You spend months and months try to create your own descriptions and try to create your own layout, then suddenly somebody out there, who has'nt got any conscience. steals your hardwork
So Genuine Sellers, you might want to find out if you've a have twin seller our there, who's copying every single details that you put into your listings.
ALWAYS READ
Instruction Manual For Home Phones DONT Get Ripped Off
A lot of the Ebay sellers of catalogue return phones DONT include the instructions with the phones, this guide will help you get manuals on line for free
DST dont sell this category of pre used phone (we specialise in NEW phones at rock bottom prices) but we are a customer focussed seller and as such we submit this information.
Some sellers will (eventually) send you a PDF on request, others will try to charge you for something you should already have!
Either way its a pain waiting and you should not have to.
BT phone manuals for current and older models are on the BT.com website put /userguides after the URL (we cannot put the URL on here but the BT site is an obvious URL)
SIEMENS use the word gigaset in the url ie gigaset.siemens again all manuals are available free for download as are the software upgrades.
PANASONIC from the Pan website select customer support and then download centre - most manuals are inc (we have all Pan paper manuals if required).
PHILIPS Same as Pan - from the UK site select customer support most are available
Hope this helps a bit - will add more when I get time
Then again you could just buy new complete kit at a bargain price - shipped FAST by a PRO dealer offering REAL guarantees !!
CLICK DST SHOP
HOW TO START A SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS ON EBAY!!!!
How to start a successful business on ebay!!!
Many people first try selling on eBay because they want to clear out the attic or instead because they just fancy giving it a go. Very few start out to sell on eBay professionally from day one.
Before we actually start with the selling process, firstly let me ask, what do you intend to sell? I would strongly suggest that you sell something that you are passionate about. Your passion, or feelings come through in your listing. A plain white T shirt to one person could be a classic white T goes with everything, a must have for your wardrobe. Which would you buy? Plain white T shirt or classic white T?
Before you start selling there are a number of things to consider.
1, Do Your Research. Do you want to be stuffing jiffy bags with CDs/DVDs or sell furniture? Each have their own practical aspects. How to wrap, how to ship, after sales service. You will need to consider the space that you have, a spare bedroom/garage for example, you would be surprised just how quickly you can fill that space. Do you want to start small and grow your business, or are you going to start big and go for it?
2, Your User IDWill your Username reflect what you sell? Or would you rather a catchy sounding name, or a boring User12345? It is entirely your choice, well just as long as no one has already taken the name you want.
3, Build Up Your FeedbackI would recommend and absolute minimum of 25 positive feedbacks, but ideally at least 100, a good compromise would be 50. The reason you want feedback before you sell is that virtually no one will bid on a seller with zero feedback and if they do, they wont be bidding a large value.Feedback gives bidders a confidence that you are a genuine person. So buy a number of things first. This will also give you a good idea of how other sellers perform and you can get an idea of what a buyer is looking for. Then when you have some idea about what the buyer expects, list a small number of cheaper items to gain some feedback as a seller, and to give you an idea what to expect as a seller. This learning exercise should give you sufficient feedback to start as a proper seller.
4, Image
What is Cameo Jewelry? from Harris Michael Jewelry
are beautifully hand-carved scenes or portraits of people or animals in
three-dimensional relief. Cameos are made from multi-colored conch
shells or banded agate, which is a semi-precious stone. Cameos made
from either material are hard and durable and very beautiful works of
art. The beauty of a cameo is certainly in its carving, but also
in the selection of the material. The carver selects a section of the
conch shell or agate and determines where the layers of color are. Then
the carver creates a design just for that section of shell or agate
that will reveal colored layers as it is carved, making the finished
cameo more three-dimensional. After the cameo is carved, it is polished
by hand creating a wonderful luster and depth to the finished piece.
Typically, the darker color will be in the background of the cameo and
the lighter color in the foreground. Most of Harris Michael Jewelry's
beautifully hand-carved conch shell cameos will have a rich coral color
in the background becoming almost a creamy white at its upper surface.
Our agate cameos will have a rich blue background and a milky white
image. Since every cameo is a handmade work of art, colors will vary.Cameo
History. The art of cameo engraving can be traced as far back as the
second and first centuries B.C., to the ancient Greco-Roman empires,
where cameos enjoyed a golden age. The decline of the Roman Empire,
however, brought with it a period of dormancy for cameo development. It
was not until the Fifteenth Century, during the Renaissance, that
cameos resurfaced as an art form and medium for jewelry. The Medici
family of Florence, great patrons of the arts, is credited with
restoring cameos as jewelry. At about the same time, a very high
quality agate mine was discovered in southern Germany. This region soon
became the center of cameo technology and by by the beginning of the
19th century possessed the most important agate deposits in the world.
Over the past one hundred years, this area pioneered, and is largely
responsible for developing and refining, the techniques used to carve
and color today's cameos. The once rich deposits of these mines have
been exhausted and the world is now dependent on South America for its
supply of high quality layered agate material for cameo carving.Blue Agate Cameos
. The layered agate material that is used in producing agate cameo gem
carvings is usually cut from agates with even parallel layers, a
lighter layer above a darker one. The Brazilian agate used in today's
cameos is naturally multiple shades of gray in color, ranging from a
milky white translucent to dark gray. The lower and softer layer is
dyed to produce the highly desirable rich blue chalcedony color while
the lighter colored upper layer, which is harder, does not accept dying
and remains white or milky in appearance. Only 2% of all agate material
mined is of quality suitable for detailed cameo cutting. It is
important to note that of this small percentage an even smaller
percentage can be dyed blue, making the enclosed cameos precious and
rare. the exquisite motifs and silhouettes featured in Harris Michael
cameos have been carved in relief, employing the use of a highly
sophisticated ultrasonic etching process and elegantly framed in karat
gold.Shell
or Coral Cameo Carving. Shell carvers are very particular about the
kind of shell used for hand carving cameos. The shell is broad and well
colored horizontally with light colors on top of darker colors. Most
shells originate in the Bahamas, West Indies, and Madagascar.
The master carver will select the shell to be used, outline in pencil
the shapes of the cameos that will be formed from the shell, and then
supervise the entire carving process. Because each shell is different,
each cameo will be original and unique. The methods used to carve shell
cameos haven't changed in thousands of years: the carvers use very
sharp steel gravers with handles that fit the hand of the carver. With
these incredibly sharp, precise tools, the most intricate details can
be obtained.Cameos are Desirable Heirlooms. Whether the cameo is a pendant, ring, bracelet or cameo pin,Harris Michael Jewelry's cameos are genuine works of art and are considered an investment that will be cherished for generations to come.
buying authentic designer items!
I thought this would be useful for all those hung up on designers.
I was browsing the American Ebay, and came across some really interesting guides on buying designer clobber off ebay.
They are free to read and strongly advise anyone who is considering/bidding on anything designer to check them out. There are people who don't mind wearing imitations or copies of a designer peice. But for those who are after the real thing it is important not to be fooled by those out counterfieting the real mccoy!
The guides are really detailed and the authors have extensive knowledge of the items they are talking about. What is really amazing is that they expose most fake gear and show you pictures of the fakes, the real thing and they even tell you howsellers convince you, that what you are buying is genuine.
Not all items which are described as genuine/authentic actually are! And due to the copies being made of a high standard now and it becoming harder to spot them, it is important to know your stuff, if you are after a genuine designer item. The only reason i am letting all of you buyers out there in onthis, is because i had purchased a bag which was portrayed as being genuine, and the only reason i knew it wasnt was because i did have a genuine one, but in a different style and the difference was emense!
Soi thought i'd tell you about theseguides because it got me thinking how many people have purchased itemsthinking they were authentic, and thinking they havehad a bargain, paying 90 or 100 pound, when actually, it isnt genuine.
Like i said, if you dont mind paying that for a copy, thats fine and your choice, but it can be hurtfulto discover that actually, you were betrayedby the seller as they are telling you its genuine when it actually might not be!
Generally, the author of the guides tells you basic things to know, like ; check feedback (even if something is positive there can be something negative written as some people just want to avoid conflict), if sellers are keeping feedback private you need to double check pictures, ask for more pictures of the item of every angle of the item (this is not just to check that labels are where they should be, and the logos/brand/linings are what they should be etc etc. but also that they arent plagerising someone elses pictures! The most important thing the guides tell you is what to look for if they are fake ( i.e. what genuine boxes / dust bags look like and what the fake ones are like) as they tell you that faking designer goods doesnt just stop at the product, it is receipts, boxes, tags, authenticity cards etc. too. And that if something seems too good to be true it probably is.
The guides give you back ground knowledge on the designers - such as louis vuitton does not mark downANY of their products,they NEVERhave sales, so if there is more than one of the same item for low low prices being advertised as genuine, then they possibly couldnt be, as you and i know vuitton handbags are hundreds and hundreds of pounds- so the seller is either unaware of this or the bagsmay not be genuine!
The best tip they give is to visit designer websites/ stores/ catalogues etc, get clued up on the products,and know what your after.
If you want to read more about how to buy genuine goods , I would reccomend you visit and read these guides - trust me you will be suprised at just how real the copies look - They are worth a read !
Diamond Basics: How to Pick the Perfect Diamond
of diamonds: cut, color, clarity, and carat weight, so you can select
your diamond based on the same criteria professional jewelers use to
grade them. After reading through this guide, you'll be ready to choose
a quality diamond that's right for you.
Harris Michael Jewelry carries only the highest grade of diamond
cut, color, and clarity, and many sizes to go with any budget. Harris
Michael Jewelry can halp you:
- Learn how to choose the right diamond cut with the most brilliance for your budget
- Learn how to choose a diamond with no color noticeable to the unaided eye
- Learn how to choose the right grade of clarity for your diamond
- Learn how to balance diamond quality with the size of your diamond
Cut
The cut of a diamond has the greatest effect on its brilliance,
or sparkle. Sometimes cut is confused with shape, but the cutting grade
is determined by the effort to minimize the refraction of light during
every stage of the fashioning process. Shape is simply a matter of
taste and does not effect quality. The most brilliant or fancy cut is
made of 58 carefully angled surfaces, called
facets, whose placement will effect the fire, brilliance, and ultimate
beauty of your diamond. Even if the diamond has perfect color and
clarity, a poor
cut can make it look dull. Harris Michael Jewelry carries only the
highest grades of diamond cut for the most sparkle.
Color
A little color can diminish a diamond's brilliance; diamonds with very
little color are the most highly valued and are priced accordingly.
Color grading is standardized using the GIA color grading system: the
scale begins with D and ends with Z, for white stones. Color
in a diamond is more accurately describes as "lack of color." Most
diamonds occur in nature having impurities causing them to have a
slightly yellowish cast. To help
you choose the most brilliant diamond, Harris Michael Jewelry offers
diamonds with the highest grades of color.
Clarity
Diamonds with few flaws, or inclusions, are very rare and highly
valued. Inclusions effect the clarity, or the way that light is
reflected through the stone. An inclusion can be a bubble, spot, or
line which occurred while the diamond was being formed deep in the
earth, though most inclusions are not visible to the naked eye. Clarity
is graded based on the number, location, size, how visible the
inclusions are, and type
of inclusions found in the diamond, from "imperfect" to "flawless."
Harris Michael Jewelry has some of
the clearest diamonds available.
Carat Weight
The weight of a diamond is measured in carats. The word "carat" is
derived from "carob," the tree whose seeds became the standard for
measuring diamonds. One carat equals 1/5 of a gram or .007 of an ounce.
Carat weight is further divided into decimals: exactly 1/2 carat is .50
and expressed as 50 points. Therefore, a one carat diamond is made up
of 100 points. Since larger diamonds are more rare than smaller
diamonds, diamond value tends to rise exponentially with carat weight.
Item too good to be true? Read the feedback...
This is going to sound so simple but it can save you a lot of hassle and lost money.
Before you bid, read the sellers feedback. 99.2% positive? What did the 0.8% have issue with and how recent were their negative responses posted?
Over the years as I've been perusing eBay I've learnt that some people just are out there to con people, and it is sad so you have to protect yourself.
Be sure that a product is genuine, ask to see actual photos of the item if the photo looks modified or taken from a catalogue, read all through feedback and see why other people might have complained about the service of the seller. If you don't like what you read, don't bid, find the item with someone else.
I know that this has saved me from could-be disasters over the years.
A great source of free packaging, (except for the tape)
Hi all, most of you should already know this, but a good place to get free bubblewrap, (i know it is cheap, but we get to recycle too!) oh, yes, a good place to get bubblewrap is your local TESCO or Sainsburys fresh fruit and vegitables dept.
They line all the apple and banana boxes with a good sized sheet, and it ALL goes into the bin!
All you need to do is ask a member of staff if you can have some, mention the environmental benefits of reusing it, just dont go mad and take loads!
Leave the bits that still have apples, pears
big brother golden ticket
DROP SHIP COMPANY FRAUD
I SIGNED UP TO BE A DROP SHIPPER FOR A COMPANY CALLED DIGITAL BASED IN HONG KONG.THIS AFTER MUCH CRUSING OF THE INTERNET.ALL THE INFO I GATHERED APPEARED TO BE GENUINE,EVEN THE EMAILS I RECIEVED FROM THEM.I THEN PROCEEDED TO LIST ITEMS(LAPTOPS) WHICH SOLD VERY QUICKLY(GOOD I THOUGHT) .CUSTOMERS PAID AND I SENT OFF PAYMENT.THEN NOTHING,NOT EVEN A ANSWER TO MY EMAILS.I HAVE NOW BEEN REPORTED TO PAYPAL/EBAY FOR NON DELIVERY AND LIKELY TO BE SUSPENDED.
I AM NOW AWAITING RESULTS TO TRY AND RETRIEVE PAYMENT FROM THIS COMPANY AS MY CLIENTS HAVE RUN OUT OF PATIENCE.
I HAVE NOTIFIED THE RELEVANT BODIES ABOUT THIS SCAM AND ISSUED THEM WITH A ADD.I HAVE KEPT MY MAILS FROM THEM AS A PRECAUTION,WHICH I DO IN EVERY CONTACT WITH COMPANIES.PLEASE BE WARY:
DEAL WITH THEM AT YOUR OWN RISK AS THE INFO ON THIS WEB SITE APPEAR GENUINE AND WELL PRESENTED.
SKY DIGITAL
Just a bit of information for anyone who may be a bit unsure.
ALL Sky Digital remote controls work with ALL Sky Digital receivers.
The same applies for SKY Plus. All the SKY Plus remotes work with ALL the Sky plus units.
So, if you have a working remote, but you have replaced the Digibox. Don't throw the old remote away, as it will work with your new box.
bedwarmercat
Antique Doll Terms Explained: Head Types and Terms
SOCKET HEAD: This is a head that finishes at the neck in a rounded ball shape, it fits into a matching socket in the body thus allowing the head to turn and move relative to the shoulders.
SHOULDERHEAD or SHOULDER HEAD: This is where a head and shoulders are made in one piece so that there is no movement possible between the head and shoulders. This type of head is usually mounted on a stuffed body made of cloth or kid leather.
FLANGE NECK: The head ends at the bottom of the neck with a flange or rim which allow the head to be inserted into the neck of a cloth body and the fabric sewn tight holding the head in place. The head can often be turned to the side, but has no up/down movement. This is mainly found on baby dolls.
SOLID DOME: This describe a head that has no opening on top - the top of the head is domed or rounded and there is no opening into the head.
BELTON TYPE: This term is used to describe dolls that are solid domed except for two or three holes - it is generally accepted that 2 holes are for the stringing of the doll (they are usually found one on either side of the top of the head) and if there is a third hole (or only one) then this is for attaching the wig (sometimes the wig was made by poking a hank of mohair through this hole, then spreading the hair around and over the head). The top of the Belton Type head may be slightly flattened.
CUT: This describes the way in which a large hole is cut into the head at the back and top allowing the fixing of sleeping eyes. When the cut is fairly horizontal at the top of the head this may be called a German Cut, whereas a French Cut is made much more sloping downwards towards the back of the head. The type of cut a head has can be indicative of the country of origin but this is not a foolproof method of placing a doll.
PATE: This is a domed piece (usually cardboard but sometimes plaster as in the case of Kestner dolls for German dolls, usually cork for early French dolls) that covers the cut out part of the head allowing the wig to sit naturally.
I hope this has made things clearer - if you need more information please contact me. Check out my other guides for more terms explained. Let me know if you'd like a guide for something particular relating to dolls.
BEWARE WHEN BUYING FROM OVERSEAS
maclaren single and twin strollers/buggies
READ ME BEFORE YOU BUY A POCKET INSTRUMENT
bmaa_outlet sells FAKE guess bags
bmaa_outlet sells fake guess bags - i brought a bag off of them, in good faith and when it arrived, not only was it a FAKE but it was also DAMAGED!
although they had assured me before i purchased the bag that the items were gaurenteed genuine, and they would refund if it wasn't they were not at all helpful when i complained!
BEWARE! i am now left nearly 50 out of pocket, with a damaged fake guess bag as all to show for it that i won't use as it is DAMAGED and FAKE!
How to extract WinZip files
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How to extract winzip files
Answer to cost effective time saving easy labels
Hi. I would like to share with you all my knowledge on using the resources offered free by ebay and a most cost effective and easy time saving method to address label the items you sell.
Did you know know that you can print address labels/packing slips/invoices straight from ebay. Also if you subscribe toselling manager, (this is a free ebay service), this process is made even easier, as you can print off all your packing slips/address labels in bulk. You can also add your own logo.
Once you have printed of your packing slip that contains the recipients address and all the infomation about the purchase, just fold it in a way so the adress is on the top and place into an A7 size Documents Enclosed envelope, with the adress showing through the front. You can buy somehere. These special envelopes that double up as labels are obtainable from ebay sellers from as low as 69pper50in my shop or search document enclosed envelopes.Then just peel off the back and stick to your package.
You canalso print invoices fromPaypal that can be used in the same way.
Thank you all for reading my guide.
John Watkins
Top 20 Laserdiscs
Last updated10 JuLY 2006 .....
1. Star Wars Trilogy: Special Edition 2. Star Wars Trilogy: Definitive Collection 3. True Lies (1994) 4. Braveheart (1995) 5. Forrest Gump (1994) 6. Mission: Impossible (1996) 7. Independence Day: ID4 (1996) 8. Speed (1994) 9. Goldeneye: Special Edition (1995) 10. Men in Black (1997) 11. Indiana Jones: Raiders of the Lost Ark (1981) 12. CS Aladdin (1992) 13. Star Trek VIII: First Contact (1996) 14. Heat (1995) 15. Star Wars: A New Hope (1977) 16. Star Wars: The Empire Strikes Back (1980) 17. Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade (1989) 18. Star Wars: The Phantom Menace (1999) 19. Blade Runner: Director's Cut (1992)20. Lost World, The: Jurassic Park (1997)
All currently available from the UK's only dedicated Laserdisc reseller:
Laserdiscshop UK
Guide to 1950s Vintage -part two
In it, I mentioned looking on American eBay for vintage.I'd just like to make it clear to all potential vintage buyers that there is of course excellent vintage to be found on UK eBay as well and many wonderful sellers !!! Happy hunting...
Feedback - you`re at their mercy
copy www.goofbay.com in your browserand type in bettabargain to see how many of the ebayers who left neg feeback for me are
NO LONGER REGISTERED MEMBERS ON EBAY
7 out of the 10 negs no longer trade on ebay because they were scammers
and you will see just how many Dodgy Ebayers who left negative about me feedback are now no longer registered
I think feedback is not always a good thing and can be very damaging to your ebay trading.
As an example - I purchased an e-book from a so called reputable ebayer.
When i received it it was so full of mumbo jumbo that you would have needed a degree to understand it.
So I left Neg feedback about the product i had purchased with words to that effect and no slanderous or personal remark about the seller.
The next thing I know is that he has responded by putting a Slanderous Personal
Best postal scales for ebay. New uk postal charges!
Only one set of scales recommended for ebay posting!
Visit www. digitalscale.com for independent verification then search ebay for spelling mistakes at fatfingers.com! and as a matter of interest if your thinking of buying postal scales read this go to www. digitalscale.com and read the review of scales and if your lucky you can try a search on ebay for UTRASHIP for a nice surprise!
With banding pricing for uk postage its important to weigh your items accurately to avoid wasting money, the post office will give you a leaflet of postal charges or visit their website at the link below and print a copy remember 5 extra grammes of packing can cost you pounds beware!
21st AUGUST UK POSTAGE CHANGES!
Royal Mail will soon introduce volume postal charging along with cost by weight.Please visit www. royalmail .com and click on the 21st august link at bottom of their page to see how it will affect you!
Thursday, August 5, 2010
Gaslow refillables
If you are thinking of buying a refillable system, I have to say that this is probably about the most professional and user friendly system you could get. It is also very good, and no problem. I started using this system when I was shocked at how expensive gas was getting, so I bought a 6kg gaslow bottle and used it on a changeover with a calor 6kg, the calor is the backup bottle, however sold a bit more stuff on ebay and raised enough money for another gaslow bottle. You basically have 2 entries on the bottle one is the normal gas outlet which happens to be the same as butane, but autogas is propane, I dont know why they used this thread? the other is the inlet and is piped to a filling point you can either mount this in a gas locker or it can be mounted on the exterior of the van by drilling a hole, its not too drastic and very convenient, but when you sell the van you will have to either hide it or buy another filler. Pull up at the petrol station that sells gas, you can find them on the net for wherever you are or are going. Connect the filler and fill up until it stops, if you fill for the first time, I recommend just putting 12 litres in and thats how much in a 6 kg, the first time you fill some gaslow bottles you can overfill. The pump normally switches off when bottle is full. Then, use gas as normal, and you dont have to be so frugal, a calor bottle is around 17 now and there is barely 5 worth of gas in it. Last week I filled both mine after using for a year and cost me 13, this was on motor-way services so slightly more expensive, but would be about 11 to fill 2 bottles. We are going away for a week at the sea in april and I know I have loads of gas and we dont tend to be so frugal as its easier to fill and cheaper too, so water heater can be left on longer etc. It looks like 2 bottles will last about me a year maybe less, depends on electric hook up use, but we hope to use CL's more and be self sufficient more. However certainly recommended and they comply with any regulation that forcourts have, however I have found some of them dont really know the rules and there are bottles you can buy which are not as complete a system and dont have the required 80% fill system fitted. Which the garage is supposed to stop you using if they dont but doubt this would ever happen, I filled my first bottle in the boot of the car before fitting to the van, which is probably naughty but they are generally too busy to watch everyone and they think you have a gas car, when filling the van, there shouldnt be a problem and their regs state that the system should be 'fixed' to the vehicle used. Update, went away for new year and used nearly two bottles over the week, heating on most of the time and hot water, it was cold. Filled up when I went and filled up on the way home, it was amazing how much gas you can get through without hook up in the winter. I actually thought one bottle had got too cold to gas of on the third day, but found out it was empty, also found that propane will gas off at much lower temperature so no problem there. So switched to second bottle and used 3/4 of that, fill up on way home was around 8 so not bad, could have cost nearly 40 with calor. If I stick to hook up for this year that may last most of the year now.
Update, filled up after a few weekends use, bufore hols in wales. Got about 5 in, both bottles full. Word of caution here, while I was at wales it got hot, the bottles were filled and obviously started to heat up. There is a vent of in the valve body for excess pressure so when the sun is out and you have just filled the bottles, you may find you smell gas and there is periodic hissing, this is no cause for alram and yes gas is being vented of as the bottles are being heated by the weather, but once the level has settled etc and some gas has been used it will stop venting usually within a day, but only a very small amount is vented, it is to release the pressure if the temp rises on a full bottle, do not worry you should not have a leak.
Ford XR Cars:Escort XR3,XR3i,Fiesta XR2,Sierra XR4i ...
Ford XR Models 1980-1989
This is one of many illustrated classic car guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it. If youwish to find out more about the classic Ford XR car model art featured in this guide please click here.
This guide celebrates Ford's famous XR models of the early to mid-Eighties, from the XR3, the original high-performance version of the front-wheel drive Escort, to the Sierra XR4x4, Ford's first 4wd production car in Europe.
Ford Escort XR3
The high-performance version of the 1980 front-wheel drive Escort. Available only with carburated engine, initially with four-speed gearbox, but for most of 1982 made with five-speed replacement.
Ford Fiesta XR2
The original Fiesta XR provided "Kent" crossflow 1.6-litre engine with improved braking, suspension and interior. Four-speeds only. Cars with similar specifications to what became XR2 were first offered as a UK racing package in 1980.
Ford Escort XR3i
Three-door hatchback successor to the original 4 and 5-speed XR3 with fuel injection rather than carburated CVH engine. The XR3i placed ford firmly into the growing European "hot hatch" market, helping Escort overtake Cortina as Britain's best selling car.
Ford Sierra XR4i
Conceived alongside the rest of the September 1982 Sierra range, the XR4i combined 2.8-litre V6 with fuel injection and Ford five-speed gearbox within a unique biplane-winged three-door body. Rear drive and independent rear suspension. Cd 0.32 claimed for modified body.
Ford Fiesta XR2
The second-generation XR2 brought important benefits, including the 96bhp former XR3 engine of CVH type and a standard five-speed gearbox, also of Escort extraction although housed in a Fiesta casing. A more refined car all-round than its predecessor.
Ford Sierra XR4x4
Ford of Europe's first 4-wheel-drive production car, with five-door body replacing three-door body "biplane" XR4i on the UK market. Available in three-door body on the Continent, and also as two-wheel drive.
Thank you for reading my guide and I hope you found it interesting!
Mercedes Cars : 450SLC,350SE,200,300SEL 6.3,280SL,190
This is one of many illustrated classic car guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it. If youwish to find out more about the classic Mercedes car art featured in this guide please click here.
This guide celebrates ten post-war classics from the marque of Mercedes-Benz Models.
Mercedes-Benz 300S Cabriolet
The first post-war luxury design from Mercedes-Benz was the prestigious and hugely expensive six-cylinder 300 Series. The saloon was launched in 1951, and a year later it was joined by the splendidly equipped 300S Cabriolet. Mercedes regained its reputation for highly sophisticated large-capacity cars with the 300, but sales were very limited with only 560 300S cars and 200 300SCs being built.
Mercedes-Benz 300SL Coupe
Basically the world's most advanced production car when launched in 1954, the 300SL used a dry-sumped version of the Mercedes 300 series sohc 2,996cc straight-six engine. Good for around 140mph (225km/h) and 0-60mph (0-100km/h) in 8.8 seconds, the model was the first to used direct fuel injection. In 1957, the 300SL roadster, with soft-top and conventional doors, took over from the gull-wing model.
Mercedes-Benz 190
In 1961 the Mercedes 190 and 190D (four-cylinders, 1897cc, 75 and 50 bhp respectively) were given new bodies, following the lead set by the design of the 220. The new body was longer, larger and lower than before and had slight tail-fins. From 1963 on, the 190 was equipped with disc brakes and a twin-circuit hydraulic system. Total 190c production from April 1961 to August 1965 was 130,554.
Mercedes-Benz 220SE Cab
The elegant fintail W111/W112 coupes and cabriolets were a styling triumph for Paul Bracq, the French designer who had joined Daimler-Benz in 1957. The 220SE cabriolet was offered from September 1961 and like its coupe counterpart, was a very luxuriously equipped motorcar. A total of 16,902 coupe and cabriolet 220Seb models were produced to October 1965 before replacement by the 250SE.
Mercedes-Benz 280SL
The last derivative of the 1963 to 1971 SL-series was the 280SL of 1968. This had a 2,778cc six-cylinder engine, now giving 170BHP and an increase in performance over the earlier models. The styling of the Type W113 models was derived from that of the saloon cars, and whilst retaining the clean understated lines, they were subtly lighter in mood. Total production of the 230 / 250 / 280 SL range was 48,912 cars.
Mercedes-Benz 300SEL 6.3
The most exciting Mercedes sports-saloon of the 1960s was the incredible 300 SEL 6.3. The brainchild of Erich Waxenberger, development chief at Mercedes-Benz at the time, it involved squeezing the massive 6.3-litre V8 engine of the 600 model into the engine-bay of the standard 300 series car. Looking almost identical to the standard 3-litre car, the 6.3-litre version could be identified by its twin circular headlamps and wider wheels and tyres.
Mercedes-Benz 200
In 1968 the "New Generation" Mercedes were introduced with petrol engines of four (200,220) or six-cylinders (230,250). The 200D and 220D were offered as the diesel versions. The new 200 saloon was the least expensive car of the fifteen models of the New Generation class. Emphasis was placed on safety rather than performance with a body designed for maximum crash resistance. Total 200 model production - 288,775 units.
Mercedes-Benz 350SE
Mercedes-Benz announced their new generation W116 S-class saloons in 1972 as the 280S, 280SE, 380SE and 450SE. These were bigger, faster, safer and more comprehensively equipped than the models they replaced. The 450SEL 6.9 was added to the range in 1975 with, among other things, hydro-pneumatic suspension. Total production of the eight-cylinder 350 SE between August 1972 and September 1980 was 51,140.
Mercedes-Benz 450SLC
Mechanically identical to the two-seater SL models, the SLC (Sports Light Coupe), introduced in 1971, had fixed-head coupe bodywork, allied to more head room, longer doors and two rear seats. Although a little heavier than the two-seaters (by a surprisingly low 110Lbs), this did little to affect the performance. The 450 SLC was introduced in 1972 and the 450SLC 5.0 appeared in 1978.
Thank you for reading my guide and I hope you found it interesting!
eBay! How To Reduce The Risks of Being Scammed
Ebay Scams With over 5 million auctions running at any given time, eBay is by far the most popular online auction site in the world. Unfortunately with online auctions accounting for the vast majority of online fraud, eBay has become a home, not only to the honest trader, but to thousands of online thieves and scam artists as well. The following articles are not provided to discourage users from using eBay. Instead these articles are meant to keep Internet users aware of the various scams present, and will hopefully prevent readers from falling victim to these scams.
Wether you are a newbie or seasoned veteran trader we all can fall fowl of a scam, the criminal fraternity that operate on auction sites are always coming up withnew sophisticated ways in trying to con you. Their main objective is always trying to get your money or goods, then dissapear without trace.How to Reduce the Risk of Being Scammed: Though there is no sure way to prevent yourself from being a victim of fraud (especially where online auctions are concerned). However, the following measures can be taken to significantly reduce you chances of becoming a scammer's next victim. 1. PRIOR TO BIDDING Check The Seller's FeedBack Always remember to check a seller's feedback rating before placing a bid, the feedback rating is your most useful tool in trying to determine whether a seller is legitimate or not. You should be wary of sellers with low feedback, no feedback, or excessive negative feedback, especially in regards too high priced items. Ask The Seller Questions This is not only useful in answering whatever questions you might have, but it can also give you an idea of what type of communication you can expect from the seller as well (is he/she fast, slow, detailed, vague, helpful, poor, rude, etc.). Remember, never place your bid until all of your questions have been answered. Know Your Item Make sure you know what you are bidding on before you place a bid. You should always know exactly what you are bidding on, including its relative value before placing your bid. Don't always trust the seller's description, it may seem like a deal if the seller sells you a clock for 20, that's worth 50, but not if you can go to your local shop and buy the same thing for 10. Agree to and accept Seller's Terms Remember the seller sets the terms of the auction. If you do not agree with the seller's terms, you shouldn't bid on the item. Don't expect the seller to change the terms just for you, simply because you're the highest bidder (If the seller only sells locally and you live internationally, you can only bid if the seller agrees to let you bid before the auction is over.) Know Shipping Costs Make sure you agree to shipping as well. If you think a seller should ship a different way, or is overcharging for shipping, you must ask him/her beforehand if they will ship another way. If you and the seller can't agree on shipping then don't place your bid. 2. AFTER PLACING YOUR BID Obtain The Seller's Contact Information The very first thing you should do after placing your bid is copy down any and all of the seller's contact information. This can be obtained by visiting Find a Member
If the user is ever unregistered or blocked from eBay, either before or during the transaction you will be unable to obtain his contact information. Therefore it is better to have it as early in the transaction as possible. Remember, you should always have a way (other than email) to contact your seller. Set Your Personal Limit Decide beforehand the maximum amount that you are willing to pay for the item, and stick to it. Don't get caught up in the heat of the moment, only to end up paying a lot more money then you originally intended. 3. AFTER WINNING THE AUCTION Verify the Seller's Contact Information You should try to verify the seller's contact information before sending payment. Make sure you keep an eye out for any inaccuracies. (If a seller's contact information were to state his location to be somewhere in Europe, yet his auctions claim his location to be somewhere in the United States; there may be some cause for concern.) NOTE: If a seller's contact information is at all fraudulent, you have no further obligations to complete the transaction. Furthermore the majority of scam artists use phony contact information in conducting their scams. Discrepancies in contact information should be reported to eBay Help: Contact UsSend Traceable Payment (When Possible): After confirming that the seller has a valid address, you should prepare to send payment. Whenever possible you should pay via a protected form of payment. Some forms of protected payment are: Credit Cards: If you do not receive your item, or if it is not as described, and the seller refuses to correct the matter you have the right to initiate a credit card chargebacks. In many cases all of the funds can be recovered. If protected forms of payment are not available, you should still try and have payment sent via some traceable means, these could include: Online Electronic Payments This includes services such as billpoint and paypal.com. These services keep a record of a transaction and will try to assist you if any funds are lost. NEVER USE WESTERN UNION OR SIMILAR SERVICES TO PAY FOR AUCTIONS. These services are meant to be used between two parties who know each other personally. Western Union is not safe for auction payments, and I would estimate that at least 9 out of 10 sellers who only accept Western Union for payment are committing fraud. Secondly, After the auction closes, sellers are required to ship the merchandise within the time frame designated during the auction or, if no time frame is specified, within 30 days. If a seller can't meet the shipping commitment, he/she must give the buyer an opportunity to cancel the order for a full refund or agree to the new shipping date. Sellers are completely responsible for an items safe delivery whether or not insurance is purchased. Leave FeedBack Only When The Transaction is Complete: A seller's most important resource is his/her feedback. You should never leave feedback until the transaction is completely finished. This means either both parties are satisfied or one (or both) parties refuses to participate any further in the transaction. Often if you leave negative feedback too early the other party may become reluctant to assist you any further in the matter.
I have put this guide together to try and prevent you from having negative experiences. If you read this information I have provided hopefully you will definitely benefit from it. So make a difference by voting YES below and help others to see this advice by making it visible to others, which will hopefully make eBay a safer place to buy and sell.
VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda Key Programming / Reprogramming
Hello everybody.
Firstly, I must apologise to all those who have purchased these instructions from me over the past few months.
From May this year, Ebay revised their Downloadable Media Policy
Lotus Cars - Part 2: Elite,Eclat, Esprit, Turbo, Excel
This is one of many illustrated classic car guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it. If you wish to find out more about the classic Lotus sports car art featured in this guide please click here.
Lotus began developing a new generation of road cars in the early 1970s and launched two entirely different models, the front-engined Elite/Eclat and the mid-engined Esprit in the 1974-1976 period. As was almost traditional by this time, these cars all used the backbone chassis allied to a fibre-glass body-shell and featured the new 16-valve type 907 engine. For the 1980s engines were enlarged to 2.2-litres and the Esprit was offered in turbocharged form. It offered great value-for-money with standards of roadholding, and performance matching many Italian supercars but at a considerably lower price.
Lotus Elite 1974-1982
Introduced in mid-1974 was the new Elite, sharing its name with the 1957 classic. A very stylish looking car with angular lines and a well appointed interior, it continued with the concept of a backbone chassis and fibreglass body. It featured the new 1973cc front-mounted engine. From 1980 the Elite adopted the larger 2174cc engine as the Elite S2.2.
Lotus Eclat 1975-1982
Released in 1975, the Lotus Eclat was a derivative of the Elite featuring a restyled rear body. Aimed at the US where the hatchback style failed to find much favour, the Eclat name was later revised to the Sprint. This broke with the Lotus tradition of model names beginning with the letter E. From 1980 the Eclat moved to S2.2 form with the fitment of the 2174cc engine in stock form.
Lotus Esprit SI 1976-1978
In 1976 the mid-engined Esprit replaced the Europa. It combined all the expected Lotus virtues - a backbone chassis, all-independent suspension, razor sharp handling and an unmistakable glass fibre body. SI features include 14in Wolfrace wheels and the period Lotus bonnet badge. A total of 714 SI models were produced.
Lotus Turbo Esprit 1980-1986
Introduced in 1980, the 210 bhp Turbo Esprit took Lotus into the supercar class around 20,000. With a 2174cc four-cylinder engine in turbocharged form the early cars were built in the major race team sponsor's Essex colours. For the final year it received a revised, high compression engine and became known as the Esprit Turbo HC.
Lotus Esprit S2, S2.2 and S3 1979-1993
By late 1977 the Esprit was improved to become S2, with subtle styling revisions, a different instrument cluster, revised seating and wider-rim wheels. This in turn was replaced by the Esprit S2.2 in 1980, which had a 2174 cc/160 bhp engine. From 1981 the Esprit S3 was introduced. It used the chassis and suspension of the Turbo and ran until 1993.
Lotus Excel 1982-1992
In late 1982 the Excel was introduced as a replacement for the ageing Eclat. It used a Toyota gearbox, disc brakes and drive-shafts but retained the original 2.2 litre engine. In 1985 the Excel was updated to SE, with the addition of the 180bhp HC engine and a large rear spoiler. A year later came the Excel SA, with German ZF 4 speed auto transmission.
Thank you for reading my guide and I hope you found it interesting!
Fake Links of London Lovestruck bracelet
PLEASE TAKE NOTE: I recently bought a Links of London Lovestruck Bracelet from someone on Ebay. I asked all the right questions, is it genuine, authentic etc. and I was assured it was.
Bracelet finally arrived and I only know it's a fake because I have since received other items from the Links of London website in the Lovestruck range and the genuine articles are a much superior product.
To give you a guideline, the arrows have smaller "feathers" and if there's a white topaz arrow, this should have a thick silver background, it should not be hollow either.
I have learnt an expensive (200.00)lesson and would not wish you to have to do the same.
Best to buy direct from Links, they frequently have Sales and I have recently bought items from then a a 60% discount.
Go on to their website and register for updates, this way you will not miss out on their Sales.
Hope this helps.
Selling clothing on Ebay
I have sold a fair number of items on Ebay over the last few years and have learned at the same time about what to put in a listing to help buyers decide if I am selling something they want or not without having to ask questions and wait for a reply.
Things that make me cringe and skip past a listing are items described as Georgeous when the seller means gorgeous, and listings with little hearts and things in the title. I also avoid keyword spamming. If I am looking for a Per Una item and the title contains Monsoon, Next, etc. then I don't look. This is actually against Ebay policy, never mind downright annoying.
I also avoid listings that contain sparkly backgrounds and too many animations and especially 'things' that follow the cursor around the page. If you really want to lose sales, then get Merlin the Wizard because as soon as he pops up on a page, I am off at the speed of light.
One more thing to compain about (yes I know) is finding a listing with so much stuff, text boxes full of information that does not relate to the item for sale like complete clothes sizing charts and the sellers life story which make the page so big it doesn't fit on the screen and huge photos that take hours to download.
Photos on dark backgrounds, photos which are too small, especially ones that have been stolen from other sellers listings and the wrong one has been pinched so that it is minute and obviously stolen from the gallery image, and........ photos that are sideways so that you can't see the item without turning your monitor on its side. Ebay has a photo editing thingy which enables photos to be rotated.
One thing I think is essential in a listing is the actual measurements of the clothing or bag or whatever. I seem to spend a lot of time asking questions about sizes of waists, lengths of sleeves and rise measurements in jeans, just because something is a size 12 it does not mean it is the same as every other size 12 in the world, and almost every item is different.
So, put in measurements please, there have been many times when I have seen an item and just not bothered to bid because there was no way of telling if it would fit and I couldn't wait around to see if the seller answered a question, many don't.
If you want to be a good seller, you need to ensure that you recieve your e.mails from the Ebay system and that they are not filtered into your junk folder. Although the ASQ is unreliable, you do need to check your e.mails for questions from buyers.
Packaging an item in a dirty old carrier bag is not a good idea, neither is using brown paper as it rips and disintegrates when exposed to wet weather. Clean, used or new packaging is essential, and a return address or house no. and postcode at least, on the back in case something goes astray.
If you have not yet been put off trying to sell on Ebay by the recent changes to feedback and search and all the other things, then good luck, and I hope this guide has been of interest.
Which cake stand?
Careful attention should be given to wedding cake stands. The wedding cake always plays one of the most interesting and special parts of the wedding reception. The wedding cake should be placed in a prominent and focal position for all to see as the bride and groom cut the cake . Therefor, a good and stable wedding cake stand should be used
Most important is to know your cake sizes and that it will fit the stands.
also that the stand is able to take the weight.
Types of Wedding Cake Stands
One of the most popular styles is the three-tiered wedding cake, it will require a stand capable to hold this style of cake, this normally a square or round stand. As most wedding cakes are three-tier, wedding cake stands are often either a) an unraised cake plate; b) a plateau stand (flat or raised uniformly off the table); or c) a pedestal (raised in the center by some sort of pillar) stand. Glass, acrylic, ceramic, china, metal and even single-use Styrofoam cake stands can be used. To accommodate the wide variations of the traditional wedding cake, there are many styles of wedding cake stands available
Grouped Arrangements of Wedding Cakes
Wedding cake stands come in all sorts and types and are also available for grouped arrangements of wedding cakes. This allows each cake to be displayed individually on its own stand, and the stands are usually staggered in various heights for a beautiful presentation. This type of cake stand allows cakes to be displayed in a variety of ways: in stair-step format, in a rounded appearance (symmetrically with tallest in back and shortest stands in front), in a cascading appearance, or in an asymmetrical grouping. The design options are ample to satisfy all requirements.
Separate wedding cake stands arranged in these types of groupings create a wonderful effect and work well with intricate and individually decorated cakes. Shapes that are non-traditional also work well in this format because they can be displayed individually. Keep in mind if you choose a cake stand of this nature you will need a cake table with ample room to display the cakes.
If in doubt to what stand to use ,your cake maker of local bakery will offer useful advice
lazytown ripoffs
Sennheiser CX300 Headphones: Counterfeit or Genuine?
Sennheiser CX300 Headphones: Counterfeit or Genuine?
The information provided here serves as an update to previous attempts at identifying counterfit CX300 headphones. Previous guides covering identification procedures on ebay and the internet are considerably outdated as fake headphones are increasingly more difficult tell from genuine ones.
In identifying fake headphones there are the following considerations regarding the specification of the CX300 given on the sennheiserusa specification sheet and deduced from the high resolution images also provided on the sennheiserusa product page. Both links are provided below.
The cord must be 20 inches (right), 7 inches (left) to center and 2.8 ft. to the plug.
The plug/jack must be a silver 1/8 inch angled plug.
The metal grill covering the speaker cavity must be a finely woven wire mesh.
The metal ring surrounding the earphone must have an indentation offset away from the earbud.
The speaker driver must have 16 ohms impedance.
If your headphones fail to have these standard features outlined by the actual Sennheiser product guide your headphones are considered counterfeit. There is no indication by sennheiser that products should vary from specification. Beware if ebay listings are described as "new version". Sennheiser have no wish to continuously redesign such a successful product, "new version" more likely points to a newer generation of accurate copies, which there is clear evidence for.
Other diagnostic features are subtle and identified through comparison to a genuine product:
Cord thickness unusually thin and flexible.
Metal ring is unusually angled with poor quality scratched finish.
Metal ring indentation is uneven and varies with deviation from centre.
Plastic headphone mould has sharp edges.
Plastic has matt finish, not polished.
Though these defects may be present in official sennheiser products, quality control should prevent this. If your headphones have these defects and your headphones are legitimate you can approach sennheiser for a replacement. If you are still unsure of whether your Sennheiser product is counterfeit or genuine after reading this guide consider contacting Sennheiser with photographs of your product.
If you arestillthinking of purchasing CX300,CX400 or CX500 headphones from ebay be aware that99%of the listings are fake, even those with near retail prices sold from shops.Do not be fooled by "retail packaging", this is very accurately copied. Ask the seller whether the packaging has PET and a validation number on the base, all Sennheiser CX should have both; however these have also been seen to be copied perfectly.
Retail Packaging Comparison (MJ)i27.tinypic.com/wslnp5.jpgResources
Sennheiser CX300 Product Page (sennheiserusa.com):sennheiserusa.com/newsite/productdetail.asp?transid=500830
High resolution pictures of the CX300 (sennheiserusa.com) :sennheiserusa.com/media/hiresImages/CX300-B_hires.jpgsennheiserusa.com/media/hiresImages/CX300-W_hires.jpg
Sennheiser approach to counterfeiting (sennheiserusa.com):sennheiserusa.com/staticContent/counterfeit.asp?transid=1357
Counterfeit Examples
Poor quality metal ring (curiouswanderer):i27.tinypic.com/r1wphz.jpg
Perforate sheet metal grill (curiouswanderer):i29.tinypic.com/2m4rc4x.jpg
Matt black plastic finish, poor rubber quality (cin___server87):i26.tinypic.com/vhvr68.jpg
Large poor qualitymesh grill (cin___server87):i29.tinypic.com/2hpkoqx.jpg
BUYING BEAUTIFUL AFFORDABLE BRIDESMAID DRESSES
Hiya all,
After selling bridesmaid dresses for over 4 years now I thought I would just share my advice
lazytown boys
Morette Style Twin Headlight Conversion for Peugeot 206
Sunglasses - DG or D
brand names with very similar logos - DG Eyewear (fashion brand) and
D
FAKE NOKIA N95 MOBILE PHONE HOW NOT TO BUY A FAKE
Goldfish and how to care for them
Hologramon GHD's
Morgan Sports Car: Plus 8, Plus 4,4/4 Series 2-5
This is one of many illustrated classic car guides I've created for the eBay community. I hope you enjoy it and if you would like to find out more about the classic Morgan sports car art featured in this guide please click here.
Henry Frederick Stanley Morgan started out as a railway apprentice at Swindon, but in 1906, and with the blessing of his clergyman father, opened his own garage in Malvern Link. Three years later he designed a lightweight chassis for a three-wheeler to take an air-cooled vee-twin engine and commissioned Mr Stephenson Peach, engineering master at nearby Malvern College to machine components for him. The tiller-steered single-seater prototype became the forerunner of over 15,000 Morgan three-wheelers made until 1952. Four-wheeled production started in 1936 with the 4-4 (4 wheels, 4 seats) and in essence the cars have changed little to the present day. Still occupying its Pickersleigh Road, Malvern Link factory, Morgan has remained 100% family owned and is truly unique amongst British sports-car manufacturers. This guide features a selection of six classic Morgans from the F-type 4-cylinder model of 1933 to the V8-engined Plus 8 of 1968.
Morgan Three Wheeled Morgan 1912-1952
The Morgan three-wheeler arrived on the scene in 1912, before the cyclecar craze that hit its peak in the 1920s, and it outlasted every other make of cyclecar, for the last Morgan three-wheeler was built in 1952. It owed its longevity not only to ingenious design, which enabled it to combine low weight with high performance but also to the business acumen of HFS Morgan. The F4 model was introduced in 1933 and featured the car-derived Ford 8HP four-cylinder engine.
Morgan 4-4 Series 1 1936-1950
Called the 4-4, standing for four wheels, four cylinders, Morgan announced their first four-wheeler in "The Light Car and Cyclecar" in 1935. The prototype was based on the Morgan F-type chassis and powered by a Ford 993cc side valve engine, although production models would be fitted with the more powerful and sporty 34bhp Coventry Climax 1122cc engine and later the 39bhp Standard "Special" engine, retrospectively known as the Series I.
Morgan 4/4 Series 2-5 1955-1968
In 1954, after a gap of four years, Morgan re-introduced the 4/4 as a lower powered more economical model to run alongside Plus 4. The new 4/4 was a fully cowled model whereas the last 4/4 had been a "flat-rad" and the engine was a Ford, rather than Standard Triumph product. This revived ties that went back to the days of the three-wheelers. As Ford changed its engines, Morgan followed and the 4/4's performance improved as it went through the 105E Anglia (Series III), 109E Classic (Series IV) and 116E Cortina (Series V) engines.
Morgan Plus 4 1950-1969
The Plus in Plus 4 stands for extra power, provided in the first instance by the four cylinders of the 2038cc Standard Vanguard engine and then by the engines of the Triumph TRs. Introduced in 1950, the two-seater reached production first, followed by the four-seater and the coupe within the space of a year. By 1954, after some experimentation, the classic "high-cowled" style was achieved.
Morgan Plus 4 Plus 1963-1966
The 1960s was a difficult time for the company. Morgan's old-fashioned styling was out of vogue and competition was fierce with an ever increasing array of new sports cars on offer from the likes of MG, Triumph and Lotus. In an attempt to modernise the Morgan, the Plus 4 Plus was introduced in 1964. It used a Plus 4 chassis, with the same TR4/TR4A engine, exhaust system, gearbox and back axle as the standard Plus 4 of the time. The body however was a fixed-head coupe, with two doors and an externally opening boot. Only 26 were made in two years.
Morgan Plus 8 1968 on
The introduction of the Rover V8-engined Morgan Plus 8 in 1968 added a genuine high-performance model to the company's range. Retaining Morgan's traditional design, with styling as the Plus 4, the Plus 8 addressed the needs of the Morgan's sporting customers. Enthusiastically received by the motoring press and tested by Autocar in September 1968, a prototype Plus 8 achieved a maximum speed of 124mph and 0-60 mph in 6.7 seconds.
Thank you for reading my guide and I hope you found it interesting!
Ford Popular, Prefect and Anglia Cars
This is one of many illustrated classic car guides I've created for the eBay community. I hope you enjoy it and if you would like to find out more about the classic Ford car art featured in this guide please click here.
October 1962 saw the introduction of the Anglia Super. It came complete with the Cortina's 1,198cc version of the '80 bore engine, all-synchromesh gearbox improved brakes. Offered in distinctive two-tone, chrome-highlighted combinations, the Super was designated the 123E.
Popular 103E
Although the introduction of the 100E range in 1953 signalled the end of the old Anglia and prefect, Ford still wanted a budget entry model in the range, and dusted off the Anglia E494A to produce the new 103E Popular. This no-frills model proved a success, with over 150,000 produced between 1953-1959.
Prefect 107E
Since the new Anglia was only available in 2-door form the old Prefect 100E bodyshell was continued to retain a low-priced 4-door model, but with the 105E power unit and four-speed transmission. Deluxe specification only it had two-tone paint, floor carpets front and rear and improved seats.
Squire Estate 100E
The Escort and Squire Estates were Ford's first factory-built small wagons. Escorts were 5cwt vans with Anglia grilles, seats and windows. Squires used the Prefect grille and wood strakes on the side. Mechanically, they were identical.
Popular 100E
When the trendy new 105E Anglia came out in 1959, the old 100E Anglia was downgraded to become the new Popular. Externally it differed only in having simpler round rear lamps. The Standard Popular had no parcel shelf or opening quarter lights, fittings only found on the Deluxe version.
Anglia 105E Deluxe
Most Anglia 105E buyers opted for the Deluxe specification car, since it was only slightly more expensive than the standard model. The Deluxe boasted a full-width chrome grille and the option of two-tone paintwork, in which the roof panel and rear pillars received the second colour. 1959 prices were 589 (Standard) and 610 (Deluxe).
Anglia 105E Estate
Ford launched an estate version of the Anglia 105E in the autumn of 1961. This featured a completely restyled rear-end, in which the saloons rear wing line and tail lamp treatment disappeared. A counterbalanced lift-up tailgate was provided, giving access to a 35 cubic feet load-space. Some estate cars received the 1200 engine.
Thank you for reading my guide and I hope you found it interesting!
Austin Cars :1100,1300,A60,A99,A110,A40,1800,2200,A105
This is one of many illustrated classic car guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it. If you wish to find out more about the classic Austin car art featured in this guide please click here.
This guide profiles classic Austin saloons from the BMC regime of 1952 to 1968. Ranging from the humble Mini to the powerful and well equipped Westminsters these famous models dominated our roads for at least two decades. During the mid-1960s Austin offered the widest range available from a British manufacturer with no less than nine different saloon models varying in price from 500 to 2500.
A30 and A35 (1951-1968)
One of the new models at the 1951 Motor Show was Austin's new small car, the A30. Called the new Austin Seven and fitted with the 800cc A-series engine, it was enthusiastically received by the motoring press and the public and began to appear on the roads in May 1952. Priced conveniently at 10 less than the two-door Morris Minor, the A30 was extremely economical and reliable, with just enough room inside for four adults. Never as adventurous as the Minor or in the same class in terms of handling or road-holding, the unitary-bodied A30 was nevertheless a runaway success. From 1956 the model was fitted with the bigger 948cc engine, becoming the A35, which in saloon form was discontinued in 1959 with the arrival of the Mini. The Countryman version of the A35 continued until September 1962 and the van version ran on until as late as February 1968. A total of over 550,000 A30/A35s, and commercial derivatives, were built by Austin between 1951 and 1968.
A105 (1954-1959)
Austin's first popular medium sized six after the war was the 1954 A90 Westminster, which followed the lines of the A40/A50 Cambridge. The styling was the same but in fact the new Westminster was built 2 " wider and had a longer front end in order to accommodate the new six-cylinder 2639cc C-series engine. Fitted with a single Zenith carburettor, the engine developed85bhp and gave the model a top speed of 85mph. From 1956 the A105 model was introduced with a high compression engine, twin SU carburettors and 120bhp on tap. It was better equipped than the A90 and was available in a range of two-tone colour schemes with fog lamps, whitewalls and fancy wheel trims. For 1957 a restyled Westminster was launched and designated the A95. It featured a new grille and a new, longer rear end. The A105 version of the car continued with these styling updates and now had overdrive as standard together with the option of an automatic gearbox.
1800 and 2200 (1964-1975)
The 1800 was not to be the hat-trick for Issigonis as the third successful front wheel drive model for Austin and BMC. There was nothing wrong with the concept of trying to redefine the large family car but unfortunately the model failed in many areas. It was intended to be powerful but was too big and too heavy and was no match for the performance orientated lightweights in the form of Ford's Cortina or Vauxhall's Victor. The model also lacked the style to compete in the growing executive car sector with competitors such as the Triumph 2000 and the Rover 2000 having a distinct advantage. BMC expected the car to sell in big numbers but it just didn't happen. There were plus points such as the superb ride comfort by virtue of Hydrolastic suspension and it was the roomiest family saloon on the market. Mark 2 from 1968 and Mark 3 from 1972. Six-cylinder 2200 from 1972 to 1975.
A40 Farina (1958-1967)
The A40 was the first project entrusted to the services of the outstanding Italian designer Pininfarina. As a direct replacement for the A35, the model broke new ground in that it was the first modern two-box car without a boot at the back, its general styling theme following Farina's then prevalent design brief, with crisp and simple lines similar to those of the Lancia Flaminia. On the mechanical side however, the components were fairly directly derived from the A35, with the 948cc engine in a similar state of tune and suspension, steering and braking systems similar too. The A40 was wider, had a longer wheelbase and was a great improvement on the older car in terms of roominess. The original A40 was introduced in the autumn of 1958.
Seven and Mini (1959-1969)
For 1959 BMC had an almost completely new range of cars in the popular classes. The Leonard Lord programmes of rationalisation by badge engineering had been successfully introduced, and the new Farina styled designs had brought Austin and other BMC marques into the new era. The best was yet to come as on the 26th August 1959 BMC launched the Austin Seven and Morris Mini-Minor, two revolutionary small cars that were to change the face of motoring. Issignis's masterpiece used the existing BMC A-series engine, but to fit in the smallest possible four-seater car he turned the engine sideways and put the gearbox and final drive in the sump. There was also fully independent suspension using rubber cones. For 1959 there were only saloon models, in standard or deluxe forms and a choice of three colours for the Austins Tartan Red, Speedwell Blue or Farina Grey.
Metropolitan (1954-1961)
Launched in America and Canada as early as 1954 the Metropolitan was released for home market consumption in 1957. Basically a two-seater, with children's seats behind, it was available in convertible or hardtop forms. At first the engine was a 1200cc unit from the Austin A40, but in 1956 a change was made to the 1489cc BMC B-series engine. A three-speed, column change gearbox was used and suspension , steering and braking systems were borrowed from the A30 or A40 models. Most were finished in two-tone colour schemes and a heater and a radio were fitted as standard. Whitewall tyres were a popular option. The Metropolitan did very well for the company, enjoying the distinction of being one of the best selling British-made cars in the US at the time. Last of the line, the Series IV of 1960-61 boasted quarter-lights to the door windows and an external opening boot. The Metropolitan never wore the Austin badge, even for the home market cars.
A99 and A110 Westminster (1959-1968)
Soon after the A40 and A55 models, the new Westminster followed in July 1959. Styling followed the themes of the A55 Cambridge but the more generous proportions of the Westminster made the result more pleasing. The new Austin was fitted with a bored out 3-litre version of BMC's C-series engine complete with two SU carburettors coupled to a novel gearbox, a three speeder with overdrive on second and top. Suspension followed previous Westminster practise but there were now Lockheed front disc brakes with servo assistance. In the great BMC revamp of 1961, the Westminster became the A110, it used the same engine but came with a new twin exhaust system to give a few more bhp. There was also a new grille and revised facia. There were no Morris, Riley or MG versions of the car but for those in search of more luxury there was the better equipped Wolseley 6/99.
A60 Cambridge (1961-1969)
In the autumn of 1961 most of the BMC models received a facelift and the A55 Cambridge MkII which had been available since early 1959 was replaced by the new A60 version, Simliar in appearance to its predecessor, the A60 featured a modified radiator grille and small tailfins, although side-flashes contrasting with the body colour provided a distinctive new look. Under the bonnet was a 1622cc engine and now also the option of an automatic gearbox. Wheelbase and track dimensions were slightly increased which improved the handling. For 1962 the A60 Cambridges and their Morris Oxford cousins were offered with a diesel version of the B-series 1489cc engine. Most of those produced were sold for export markets, where different excise duties made diesel cars a financially attractive proposition. The A60 Cambridge continued in production until 1969 by which time a total of around 276,000 had been produced.
1100 and 1300 (1963-1974)
The second Issigonis designed BMC front wheel drive car was introduced in Morris form in August 1962, but Austin dealers had to wait over a year before the equivalent Austin 1100 appeared in their showrooms. Although the 1100 did not have the same influence as the Mini it represented possibly the finest small family small of its day and was the best selling car in Britain for a number of years. Derivatives were made in Italy, Spain, Australia and South Africa making Austin and Morris household names in some peculiar places. The trusty A-series was now bored out to 1098cc and developed approximately 48bhp giving a top speed of 78mph. (Mk1). The 1100 was expertly packaged by Issigonis, being a little longer than an A40 but offering roughly the same interior room as an A60 Cambridge. Pinninfarina's influence was also there to see in the form of the cropped tailfins.
Thank you for reading my guide and I hope you found it interesting!